2013 Chevalières Domaine Rémi Jobard
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Very pale greeny gold and very aromatic in a keen citrus way. Palate is fat and surprisingly full. Very pure and directed saline style, staying on lemon and citrus purity. Drinking range: 2016 - 2020 L&S (Nov 2014)
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(from vines more than 60 years of age): Medium yellow. Fresh apricot, stone and menthol on the inviting nose. Rich and broad but energetic too, with harmonious acidity giving punch to the ripe fruit salad flavors. Tactile and saline but not austere. A superb village wine with good echoing grip. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025 Rating: 91+? Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com(Sep 2015)
(from vines planted in 1940). Here too there is the barest hint of the exotic to the green apple and red grapefruit-suffused nose. There is lovely detail to the delicate, stony and vibrant middle weight flavors that exhibit the same fine detail on the focused, saline and beautifully persistent finish. This is a beautiful Meursault villages of finesse and refinement. 2019+ Rating: 89-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jun 2015)
Sweet lightly coconut cream nose (some spicy oak?). Playing the pleasure rather than the reductive card. Lightly honeyed. Drinking range: 2018 - 2025 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2015)
Rating: 92 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com(Jan 2015)
The 2013 Meursault Chevaliere, from the domaine’s oldest vines planted in 1940, has a beautiful, succinct bouquet with white peach and honeysuckle scents, plus a beguiling mineral note. The palate is very composed with well-judged acidity and more tension than the Narvaux. This glides across the mouth with a saline note rounding off the finish and begging another sip. One of my picks from Jobard this year...not to be under-estimated! Drinking range: 2016 - 2025 Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com(Dec 2014)
Citrus and high spice aromatic. Juicy mid palate; plenty of concentration, yet light and airy too. It is silky and pure and has white minerality on the finish. There is a bit more grip to the mid palate than in Narvaux…From 2016/7 Rating: 16.75 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Nov 2014)
(finished with its malo; tasted from a new foudre): Aromas of candied orange, spices and flowers. Chewy and classically dry, with a sappy quality and sound acid balance extending the finish. Very nicely balanced Meursault. Jobard says the 2012 is fruitier in comparison, while this is more saline. Rating: 90-92 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar(Sep 2014)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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