|Côte de Nuits
Supple, big, fine, classy, rich: waves of impressiveness. A lovely silky feel which gathers wild berry richness as it goes, lots of sweetness in the fine tannic finish. Drinking range: 2023 - L&S (Nov 2015)
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Deep red. Cool, reticent, classic Clos Vougeot scents of black cherry, licorice and herbs are accented by a peppery note. Fairly full and fine-grained but utterly unforthcoming, even impenetrable, in the early going. This very pure but youthfully musclebound wine finishes with hard-edged tannins that will require extended aging. Very difficult to taste, much less enjoy, today but I am confident that this wine will repay patience. Drinking range: 2026 - 2037 Rating: 92+ Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Mar 2017)
(from vines situated next to those of Faiveley and Prieur near the bottom of the slope on the Vougeot side). There is a hint of menthol evident on the intensely earthy, ripe and attractively fresh notes that combine notes of dark cherry, plum, violet and a hint of sauvage. There is excellent vibrancy to the beautifully well-detailed, muscular and powerful flavors that exhibit moderate youthful austerity on the balanced and brooding finish. While qualitatively similar to the Ech the texture and tannic structure are completely different. Drinking range: - 2029 Rating: 92-95 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2016)
This was still finishing its malolactic fermentation when I tasted it In late October 2015, which made it a little angular and firm. But there’s no denying that the wine has concentration and depth, with spicy, savoury richness and well-integrated oak. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030 Rating: 95 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2016)
Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.
The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.
The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Mâconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Côte de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcelin Pommard, in the same way.
Yves, opinionated and laconical as ever, dismisses those who make pale wines by 'infusion' and says that failing to get the whole bunches properly ripe - and using all the bunch - is failing to get everything the terroir can offer. The wines he makes are dark, richly concentrated, and often hard to taste in their development, but experience shows that they age brilliantly. Defending his decision to pick late, he once said 'you miss the differentiation between vintages' if you don't - making 'cut-and-paste' wines which are the same every year... if you pay for a seat at the opera, you don't want to hear a variety singer'.
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