MOREY SAINT DENIS
2014 Domaine Stéphane Magnien
|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
|Village||Morey Saint Denis|
A blend of Clos Solon, Cognets and a little bit of Chenevery. Initially quite closed, not as juicy as the Bourgogne, with more depth and tannin. Seems a little reserved until the finish, when the fruit explodes. Much of this, Stéphane says, is on the clay vein which runs down through Les Noizons. Drinking range: 2018 - L&S (Nov 2015)
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Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Stéphane's is a small domaine, a mere 4.5 hectares, with one full hectare of that in regional wine - Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne - but it is blessed with two Grands Crus and also a long history of not messing with nature. No pesticides have ever been used on this land, and the plants are nearly all the old 'Pinot tordu' - twisted Pinot with its gnarly stems which are less vigorous than the modern clones and said by many to make wines with more finesse.
Stéphane chaptalizes only to extend fermentations - these are wines which his father Jean-Paul used to describe as 'sage en alcool' - from 12 to 13% - the old vines do not make much alcohol. Wood use is also discreet, never exceeding 20% new wood on the Grands Crus, 15% on the Premiers Crus and on the village appellations, 10% new wood for one year only, then all into older barrels.
Stéphane says that he aims to make wines with more richness than his father's, 'but not black angular wines which have less relief. Wines which leave your mouth clean and clear, refreshed and revived and, above all, wanting another glass'. He destems 100%, gives the grapes a six-day maceration, then a classical fermentation with just two pigeages, and a little remontage (pumping over) at the end.
A selection of great drinking from the evocative villages of the Côte de Nuits.
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