MOULIN À VENT
2014 Vieilles Vignes Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Beaujolais
|Village||Moulin à Vent|
Eight parcels, all high up (about half-way up the hill). Fifty centimetres of white sand (quartz) and pink sand (pink granite), on top of granite. 65-95 year-old vines. A tighter delicacy - juiciness carried like an arrow, lean and airy. Very long and fine. Drinking range: 2017 - L&S (Nov 2015)
*Case price: Mix any 12 bottles of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
Bringing his Burgundian techniques and belief in terroir, Thibault Liger-Belair has made a substantial investment in Beaujolais' Moulin-à-Vent cru, where he is producing a number of cuvées, among them this serious red whose youthful primary berry fruit fragrance is echoed on the palate with a youthfulness of primary cherry fruit that's only now starting to soften, but could do with another three years in the cellar before it mellows into the secondary, mature flavours expected of it. Rating: 89 www.thewinegang.com(Jun 2017)
This is also noticeably reduced and impossible to assess aromatically. Here too there is good punch to the focused, intense and more mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that possess not only a different texture thanks to the additional concentration but also better depth, length and definition. Drinking range: - 2022 Rating: 90-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2016)
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Beaujolais
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair have purchased eight prime parcels of vines in Moulin-a-Vent. The grapes were sold off in 2008 because they felt it took more than just one year working with the vines to get them to perform. 'My objective was not to buy a domaine, but to buy vineyards in different spots. What is very important for me', says Liger-Belair,'is to showcase the difference between each type of granite and each exposure.' Two refrigerated trucks a day delivered fruit to be pressed in Nuits-Saint-Georges (all destemmed in the 2009 vintage and only gently pumped over to 'infuse', never punched down) and raised in used barriques.
Unfortunately, the word "Beaujolais" has become all too readily attached to the word "Nouveau". There's nothing wrong with a bit of fun, and at its best the old Beaujolly Nouveau is fun with a party hat on. But there is a lot more to Beaujolais than young wines being raced across France in sports cars and fruity red wine with your breakfast. Those in the know are starting to purr appreciatively over the wines of the Beaujolais crus. These are the villages whose wines are good enough to be elevated above the generic Beaujolais name and have been given their own appellations. It's all Gamay, so bright crisp fruit is the story of the day, but there's more - there's a silky feel almost occasionally redolent of Pinot Noir and even an ability to improve with a little age. From the subtle delights of Fleurie to the gently peppered Morgon, albeit all on the light side, this is a case that will enhance any wine lovers cellar/wine rack/cupboard under the stairs.
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