MOULIN À VENT
2014 Vignes Centenaires Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Beaujolais
| Grapes | Gamay |
| Colour | Red |
| Origin | France, Beaujolais |
| Sub-district | Beaujolais Villages |
| Village | Moulin à Vent |
| ABV | 13% |
50% whole bunches - Thibault layers up his vats with de-stemmed fruit and whole bunches. Over a month in tank, then into barrel with 40% new wood, what he calls his 'white toast' - basically no toast at all, just enough warmth to bend the staves. As densely tannic as a Corton. Thick and rich with full and earthy fruit. Juicy and full of bounce, so that the tannins, while very present, are never aggressive, just part of the overall feel. A big wine which is long like a Pinot. Drinking range: 2020 - L&S (Nov 2015)
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(this will be bottled only in magnums). Here too the nose displays notes of reduction and wood toast. The middle weight plus flavors are quite densely concentrated with outstanding power and punch where the impressive amount of dry extract serves to buffer the very firm tannic spine on the moderately austere, highly complex and incredibly long finish. This is just flat out terrific though in magnum format it’s not going to make for attractive early drinking so plenty of patience will be necessary. Drinking range: - 2029 Rating: 91-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2016)
The 2014 Moulin à Vent Vignes Centenaire comes from century old vines and includes 50% whole bunch. It has a clean and precise, mineral-driven bouquet with scents of sea spray developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, ripe black cherry fruit, very harmonious and complete with a silky finish. Readers should note that this cuvée will only be bottled in magnum. Drinking range: 2017 - 2030 Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2015)
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Beaujolais
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair have purchased eight prime parcels of vines in Moulin-a-Vent. The grapes were sold off in 2008 because they felt it took more than just one year working with the vines to get them to perform. 'My objective was not to buy a domaine, but to buy vineyards in different spots. What is very important for me', says Liger-Belair,'is to showcase the difference between each type of granite and each exposure.' Two refrigerated trucks a day delivered fruit to be pressed in Nuits-Saint-Georges (all destemmed in the 2009 vintage and only gently pumped over to 'infuse', never punched down) and raised in used barriques.
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Once again there is a whiff of animale character but in this case it is sufficiently subtle that I note its presence on the earthy dark berry fruit nose only in the interest of completeness. There is fine richness to the...(read more)
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