2015 CHABLIS Grand Cru Valmur Domaine Moreau-Naudet, Lea & Sandeman

CHABLIS

2015 Grand Cru Valmur Domaine Moreau-Naudet

Grapes Chardonnay
Colour White
Origin France, Burgundy
District Chablis
Classification Grand Cru
ABV 12.5%
Vineyard Valmur

Broad shouldered, strongly built, with great richness and bridled power, this unfolds its layers on the palate, rich, structured with ripe acid lending balance and pushing the length on, a great wine. L&S (Nov 2016)


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(from 7 different parcels of 50+ year old vines that total 1.7 ha). A much more floral nose invokes ample citrus and white orchard fruit aromas that are liberally laced with an abundance of classic Chablis elements along with hints of clove and anise. As is almost always the case, the big-bodied flavors are more obviously powerful and punchy than those of the Preuses while culminating in a driving, explosive and mineral-driven finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth. Still, this is most impressive though note that it is also very clearly built-to-age and will need at least some. Drinking range: 2018 - 2026 Rating: 92-95 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2018)

The late Stéphane Moreau’s best wine in 2015 - and the one I shall buy a few bottles to remember him by - came from this east-facing, old vine parcel. The oak is very understated here, allowing the complex, briney, oyster shell notes to express themselves. Long and saline. Drinking range: 2018 - 2024 Rating: 95 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2017)

Loads of glycerol texture here, and a grassy, herby style to go with the concentrated citrus fruit. Quite sour to finish. Voluminous, for sure, but not much more interesting in terms of flavour range than their premiers crus. Drinking range: 2017 - 2027 Rating: 17+ Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2017)

Domaine Moreau-Naudet

A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).

Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.

The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).

Mimi's daughter Neil (Nelle) is a bright new addition to the team here and together there is a calm confidence in what they are doing, and the wines - full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.

This wine isn't currently part of a mixed case, but you can always browse our full selection of mixed cases here.
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