2015 Grand Cru Valmur Domaine Moreau-Naudet
Broad shouldered, strongly built, with great richness and bridled power, this unfolds its layers on the palate, rich, structured with ripe acid lending balance and pushing the length on, a great wine. L&S (Nov 2016)
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(from 7 different parcels of 50+ year old vines that total 1.7 ha). A much more floral nose invokes ample citrus and white orchard fruit aromas that are liberally laced with an abundance of classic Chablis elements along with hints of clove and anise. As is almost always the case, the big-bodied flavors are more obviously powerful and punchy than those of the Preuses while culminating in a driving, explosive and mineral-driven finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth. Still, this is most impressive though note that it is also very clearly built-to-age and will need at least some. Drinking range: 2026 - Rating: 92-95 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2018)
The late Stéphane Moreau’s best wine in 2015 - and the one I shall buy a few bottles to remember him by - came from this east-facing, old vine parcel. The oak is very understated here, allowing the complex, briney, oyster shell notes to express themselves. Long and saline. Drinking range: 2018 - 2024 Rating: 95 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com(Jan 2017)
Loads of glycerol texture here, and a grassy, herby style to go with the concentrated citrus fruit. Quite sour to finish. Voluminous, for sure, but not much more interesting in terms of flavour range than their premiers crus. Drinking range: 2017 - 2027 Rating: 17+ Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2017)
The domaine will continue under Stéphane's wife Virginie, but we will miss the bright star that was Stéphane Moreau-Naudet, who died suddenly in September 2016. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat, who recommended him to us many years ago, was a consummate vigneron, and craftsman in the cellar, using barrel-élevage, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and they use no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus). Wines full of racy character and complexity.
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