Tasted from tank - there is still a tad of spritz but this does not mask the gorgeous weight of perfectly ripe fruit - just crisp enough to have enough lift and zing - yet intense too. Clever stuff and balanced with a turned up level of oyster-shell minerality from the straight Chablis. This seems great 'bang for buck'. L&S (Nov 2016)
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A ripe and softly tropical nose features notes of mineral reduction with similar pear, apple and discreet floral scents. The nicely rich, round and seductively textured flavors possess slightly better vibrancy though there is noticeable dryness on the short and clipped gas-filled finish. I suspect, without knowing for sure, that the dryness is attributable to the abundant gas as very few wines are under ripe in 2015. Drinking range: 2019 - Rating: 86-89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2018)
Stony, sour-citrus aroma. Chalky aroma but unexpectedly creamy texture. Rich in fruit and long. Enough fruit to approach in youth. GV Drinking range: 2017 - 2022 Rating: 16 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2017)
We still miss the bright star that was Stéphane Moreau-Naudet, who died suddenly in September 2016, but there is no question that the domaine has proved to be in exceptionally capable hands under his widow Virginie, helped by Stéphane's team.
Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago) was a consummate vigneron, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence. He was also a master-craftsman in the cellar, using barrel-élevage, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus). Virginie is proving to have what it takes to build on Stéphane's legacy, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, are as fine as they have ever been.
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