There is a lot of rubbish written about not only the Gewurztraminer grape but also its most exciting proponents who almost exclusively live in Alsace. Deiss is, on the one hand, a magician and on the other a madman. This grape is a flabby, flamboyant, fruit-driven fop or an electrifying, aromatic assault and sensory journey like no other. I selected Deiss as one of my 100 most iconic wine estates in the world in a book I wrote a number of years ago. I consider Jean-Michel’s handling of this grape to be extraordinary and this 2015 vintage is soaring right now with terrific balance, impeccable florals, and a devastatingly clean and bright finish. Of course, this grape makes itself heard in the glass. It is amazingly pungent and mouth-coating. I know of no one who could polish off a whole bottle on their own for fear of flavour-overload, but if shared, with the right dish, during a jaw-drop course at a dinner party, there are very few wines on the planet that can elicit the reaction that this wine can. All this and it is the same price as a dreary bottle of supermarket own-label Champagne. I encourage everyone who reads this page to buy a bottle, take it home, and deploy it with a superbly indulgent terrine this weekend. Then tell me that this isn’t an interstellar vinous treat like no other. Matthew Jukes, Moneyweek (Oct 2018)
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Glorious but awfully sweet. Smoky and with some Thai spice notes. Fun but what do you serve it with? Creamy texture with a little bitter note on the end. Drinking range: 2018 - 2021 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com(Oct 2018)
Tasted blind. Very deep gold. Quite an evolved nose. Big, round and sweet. Arguably very slightly flabby; definitely at peak! Really rich and admirably long. Drinking range: 2016 - 2019 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jul 2018)
Domaine Marcel Deiss
Jean-Michel Deiss's wines are without doubt among the most exciting of the region. His experimental field blends in the wines he likes to call 'level of Premier Cru' are immensely impressive and worth experimenting with - they each have a definite and unique character, and are some of the most fascinating white wines in the world. Deiss may be a contrary character himself, not always in tune with other producers in the area, but the quality in the wines really does speak for what he has achieved. Biodynamic.
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