2015 1er Cru Poruzot Dessus Domaine Rémi Jobard
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Rich, dense, powerful and full of punchy flavour and texture. It's actually a bit of a sackful of cats, lots of mineral, lots of energy, but quite hostile and sharp-clawed for now. But there's lots going on here and it will be fab - just 'leave me alone' for now. Drinking range: 2019 - L&S (Nov 2016)
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(this fruit was picked with grape sugars at 14.2%): Pale, green-tinged yellow. Aromas of candied lime blossom, lemon and flowers. Concentrated, ripe and sweet, with its almost glyceral mouth feel nicely leavened by limey lift. Jobard noted that his 2015s finished with about 2.5 grams per liter residual sugar, which he said was higher than usual, and that the added sweetness gives the wines a creamy, unctuous character. This one is a bit youthfully aggressive but impressively tactile, finishing with a light phenolic edge and some emerging minerality. Am I underrating this? Drinking range: 2018 - 2025 Rating: 91 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Sep 2017)
This is rich and dense. It is muscular and powerful. It has a toned, burly, athletic character, but also a cold polished granite finish. More from the mineral than acidity to balance. From 2020 Rating: 18 or 89 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Dec 2016)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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