|Grapes||Nebbiolo, Croatina, Vespolina|
The 2016 Mimmo is another super-expressive and wonderfully inviting wine in this range. Dark cherry, mint, pine, licorice and dried herbs infuse the 2016 with striking aromatic nuance to play off its ethereal, mid-weight personality. Bright, bold and punchy, the 2016 captures the essence of the appellation so well. Suggestions of tobacco, cedar, and crushed flowers add layers of complexity. The 2016 remains a bit nervy in feel, but it offers tons of persistence and class to burn. Drinking range: 2020 - 2028 Rating: 93 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Apr 2020)
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Light to mid cherry red. Complex aroma that is mostly scented red fruit but also a touch of peppery herbs and a savoury umami/tomato note. Paper-fine tannins, mouth-watering and refined. Juicy but dry. All sorts of contradictions coalesce on the finish. Drinking range: 2019 - 2026 Rating: 16.5 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Apr 2019)
The Le Piane 2016 Mimmo is a blend of 70% Nebbiolo with 25% Croatina and 5% Vespolina grown in the acidic soils of Alto Piemonte. This is a sharply linear and direct expression that delivers not-so-subtle power and momentum from the back. Dark fruit wraps around delicate aromas of crushed white pepper, liquorice and spice. This wine should hold steady for at least ten years, but likely longer. Drinking range: 2019 - 2028 Rating: 93 Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate (www.robertparker.com) (Mar 2019)
Mimmo 2016, made from 70% Nebbiolo, 25% Croatina and 5% Vespolina, has the rather subtle, smoky nose of Nebbiolo and then is strikingly fresh and raspberry-ish on the palate.Harry Eyres, Country Life (Mar 2019)
Christoph Künzli, originally a Swiss wine importer, was introduced to the tiny and little known region of Boca by Paolo di Marchi, owner of the famous Chianti estate, Isole e Olena. Located in the highest and most north-eastern part of Piedmont the region has a rich history of winemaking up until the 1950s when investment turned from vineyards to textiles. In the 19th century the Boca region boasted almost 40,000 hectares of vines, but by the 1990s had dwindled to less than 10, leaving it all but abandoned and largely forgotten, with most of the area returning to woodland. Christoph came here in 1998.
In 2000 Paolo de Marche started his own property as Lessona, a neighbouring district. Christoph has added five hectares of vines to the original two, planted with Nebbiolo, Vespolina, and Croatina (a.k.a. Bonarda), and all of which are surrounded by dense woodland with not another vine in sight, although a sign beside the track in the woods shows an ancient photograph of the area, with a patchwork of vineyards covering the surrounding hills which looks a lot like modern-day Barolo. Christoph follows vineyard practices which are leading towards becoming fully biodynamic, and being totally non-interventionist in the winery, choosing to make the wines 'by his mouth' rather than by science. Whatever he is doing he is doing it very well and these are some of the most natural and exciting wines we have found from Piemonte; totally expressive, quite unique and with a wonderfully elegant and fine profile.
Boca DOC consists of Nebbiolo (85%) and Vespolina grapes. This wine requires full maturity and is aged in the barrel for 3 to 4 years, and can then be stored for decades. The mineral composition of the porphyritic soil together with the characteristic structure of the Nebbiolo grapes allow 'Boca' to become a full, expressive wine. Its flavours are reminiscent of ripe forest fruit, violets, tobacco and dried herbs with hints of balsam and citrus fruit. Power and a silky elegance will develop in the mouth, fascinating and playful, with a slightly noble and bitter note. The vast complexity allows one to discover new facets over and over again. Boca Le Piane can refine in bottles for 10-20 years.
'Piane': at Le Piane Christoph and his team have rediscovered the forgotten richness of the local Croatina grape. They undertook the challenging task of selecting grapes from the best very old vineyards, up to 100 years old, on high hill sides (500m) around the Montalbano, Traversagna and Santuario areas to develop a wine with tremendous character. This wine is aged in tonneaux and large wooden barrels for 2 years. The wine is very concentrated and shows notes of blackberry, cherry, tobacco and spices. The dense substance gives a velvety and mineral finish. A wine which can refine in bottles for up to 10 years.
You can download the full .pdf brochure of the vineyard and wines here.
Watch the interview of Christoph by Antonio Galloni from Vinous
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