2016 1er Cru Champ Canet Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
The vines are oldest they have in Puligny at 60+ years and are on the highest and rockiest vineyard. A little broader impact on the nose, crisp apple and wood-spice. Well polished feel - but pretty still. Then a hit of pithy Lemon juice in the mouth. This is bright and has zip, but quite shy. Sticks to its clear lemony kick. Almost gooseberry too. More linear, more closed, but long and mouthwatering. There is a fruit weight at the end under the mineral frame - that shows what will reveal itself in time. L&S (Oct 2017)
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Pale, bright straw-yellow. Aromas of white nectarine, flowers and spices are lifted by a dusty chalky quality. Juicy, savory wine with orchard and stone fruit flavors enlivened by minerals and spices. Offers lovely definition and energy and sexy inner-mouth perfume. Boillot started his harvest with this rocky parcel and no doubt that explains this wine's energy in 2016. But there's no shortage of silky texture here. A very good showing. Drinking range: 2023 - 2029 Rating: 91 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com(Sep 2018)
Light nose but great depth of fruit and admirable structure. Rather fiery on the end. Very satisfying. Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2018)
Bottled. So inviting, with that leesy richness combined with tangy spiced citrus of lemon and mandarin. On the palate it is quite full but seems a little flatter on the finish than the Referts. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026 Rating: 16.5 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2018)
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot
Jean-Marc Boillot left the family domaine to be winemaker to Olivier Leflaive for five years. Then from his maternal grandfather Étienne Sauzet he inherited much of the vineyard of the old Domaine Sauzet, in some of the best vineyards of Puligny. With this holding and others from his paternal side, he set up his own business, and he has been responsible for over 50 vintages. His daughter Lydie and son-in-law François Alzingre have worked alongside him and effectively run the domaine, and are now being joined by their children.
With the belief that a vine reaches its full potential when 40 years old, the team look after their old vines carefully, and those in La Garenne and Combettes are still those planted by J-M's grandfather Étienne Sauzet. Vines are planted to a minimum of 12000 vines per hectare, and the vineyard worked by ploughing to encourage the plants to have deep roots. They are trimmed quite high at 1.2m to leave lots of leaves for photosynthesis, and also to shade the bunches from direct sun exposure which might burn them.
Great care is taken over the date of harvest, with careful controls of ripeness made over a period of three weeks prior to starting. The grapes are harvested manually, and placed in small cases for transport to the winery, where they are pressed as whole bunches. The juice is allowed to settle out in tank and then transferred to barrel for fermentation with the fine lees. Batonnage once a week during the 11 months of barrel-aging helps the wines to feed and fatten on the lees. They normally use between 25 and 30% new wood. The domaine makes wines that show well young, with sometimes citrussy, sometimes with complex exotic fruit aromas, always with the core of minerality, and they age well too.
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