BONNES MARES
2017 Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin
| Grapes | Pinot Noir |
| Colour | Red |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | C么te d'Or |
| Sub-district | C么te de Nuits |
| Village | Chambolle Musigny |
| Classification | Grand Cru |
| ABV | 13% |
| Vineyard | Bonnes Mares |
Drouhin has delivered a 2017 Bonne-Mares that is ripe without excess. There is an enchantingly forward cherry fruit aroma with a floral edge and a light and lively texture, yet there is surprisingly persistence on the palate. There are three parcels, all vinified together, using about 40% whole clusters layered in with the destemmed fruit to deliver a wine that is supple yet underpinned with firm tannins. Aging is done in 400-litre barrels that let the mature fruit shine through. This wine will require some time to open completely but should age well. Drinking range: 2025 - 2060 Rating: 95 Charles Curtis MW, Decanter.com (Jun 2023)
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(35% whole clusters). A ripe but still agreeably fresh and densely fruit nose is a pretty mixture of spiced poached plum, red currant, earth and lovely floral nuances. There is fine density to the highly energetic and refreshing big-bodied flavors that deliver outstanding length on the very firmly structured and tightly wound yet impeccably well-balanced finish. Once again, patience strongly advised as this is very much built-to-age. 94/2032+ Drinking range: 2032 - Rating: 94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2019)
Loads of blue-earth and gunmetal aromas with raspberries, blueberries and lemon zest. Full to medium body, chewy tannins and crunchiness and richness at the end. Linear, very tight and persistent on the finish. Bang! Give this a number of years to come around. Drink after 2022. Drinking range: 2022 - Rating: 97 Nick Stock, www.jamessuckling.com (Feb 2019)
There are two barrels of the 2017 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, a decidedly promising wine that wafts from the glass with aromas of cherries, cassis, dried peony, licorice and sweet soil tones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and layered, with superb concentration and depth for the vintage, framed by a broad-shouldered chassis of fine-grained but chalky tannin and underpinned by a lovely line of acidity. Rating: 92-94+ William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2019)
Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Joseph Drouhin, founded in 1880 and still family owned, are one of the most well-respected names in Burgundy, especially through their flagship wine, the iconic Clos des Mouches.
A huge part of the Drouhin production comes from their own domaine fruit (78 hectares), and much of the rest comes from contracts such as that with the Marquis de Laguiche, who shook hands with the grandfather of the current generation, agreeing to let him manage his vineyards which included an important part of Le Montrachet; this collaboration endures. Today, the fourth generation is at the helm
Small refinements continue to be made here. The presses have been changed - a reversion to basket pressing for the reds, and for whites the presses are open - along with a number of other growers they are following the trend to think that slight oxidation of the juice before fermentation is not a problem and may add complexity as well as avoiding later problems of premature oxidation in bottle.
For the reds there has been the introduction of selective whole-bunch fermentation in the C么te de Nuits wines. The house style remains one that 'emphasises the natural elegance of great Burgundies' as they describe it. The domaine is all cultivated with an organic and biodynamic approach.
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