CHABLIS
2017 1er Cru Montmains Domaine Moreau-Naudet
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Chablis |
| Classification | 1er Cru |
| ABV | 12.5% |
| Vineyard | Montmains |
Tasted in October from the tank - the nose is more subdued here than on the Vaillons. And yet the feel here is richer and weightier. Great breadth in the mouth. The mineral side of this is serious, clean and scrubbed - this has a suedey texture to finish and lovely soft spice. Impressive impact. L&S (Oct 2018)
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This has aromas of dried apple and pineapple, lemon zest, crushed stones and hints of white pepper and crystallized ginger. It’s medium-to full-bodied with bright, mouthwatering acidity. Fantastic flavor intensity and texture. Salty on the finish. Drink or hold. Rating: 95 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Feb 2021)
The 2017 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru is one of the richer, more powerful 1er Crus in this range. A touch of vinification in oak adds volume and depth. Apricot, mango, pineapple and exotic floral notes all built in the glass. This is an especially overt, creamy style. I expect the 2017 will offer its finest drinking on the earlier side. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027 Rating: 93 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Feb 2020)
(from Montmains proper and Butteaux). Once again there is enough petrol influence to mention on the floral, airy and exotic fruit though here it’s more subtle. The lavishly rich medium-bodied flavors possess excellent concentration as well as an almost chewy texture though the warm finish lacks a bit of energy. In the same fashion as the Vaillons, I would not be inclined to age this beyond a few years. Drinking range: 2021 - Rating: 88 Alex Hunt MW, www.jancisrobinson.com (Jan 2020)
Domaine Moreau-Naudet
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Mimi's daughter Neil (Nelle) is a bright new addition to the team here and together there is a calm confidence in what they are doing, and the wines - full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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