Delicious from the start. Fruit is just ripe and has that enticing bright side that is so mouth-watering and juicy. succulent, fine and long. Great depth here. Gets riper as you go. It is deep and textured and this builds alongside an emerging stony sweep of minerality. Flowers and blossom add pretty lift and aromatics. L&S (Oct 2018)
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The 2017 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru captures so much of what makes the Moreau-Naudet wines so compelling. Brisk and powerful, with tremendous aromatic nuance and depth, the Vaillons is a wonderfully complete wine that impresses for its exceptional balance. Lemon confit, honey and wild flowers abound, but it is the wine's precision and total sense of harmony that really elevate it in this range. Drinking range: 2022 - 2032 Rating: 95 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com(Feb 2020)
(from 10% Séchet and 90% Roncières; the two are vinified separately and then blended). This too displays pronounced petrol influence on the moderately exotic aromas of muscat, melon and white peach. Once again there is impressive richness to the borderline oily middle weight flavors that possess noticeable warmth on the bitter lemon zest-infused finale. This is tasty in its fashion but I wouldn’t age it beyond a few years as I fear it may become heavy with extended cellaring. Drinking range: 2021 - Rating: 88 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2020)
Mid straw. Richer than some with some hazelnut suggestion. Really concentrated and glamorous. VGV Drinking range: 2020 - 2032 Rating: 17+ Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2019)
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Virginie is now really totally confident in her role here, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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