|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
Loic has used between 30% and 50% whole bunch fermentation with all of his 1er Cru wines this year. The Dugat's 1er Cru Fonteny vines are more than 60 years old. This is lovely in the mouth. Dark fruit expression, but it stays quite taut and mineral. The intense juice really penetrates every corner with a good, bright, pulsing fruit hit. There is fantastic pep and drive. Intense in its blackness. A luxurious feel here great weight and svelte fruit but that buzzing energy is awesome. Really this is an incredibly attractive and engaging wine, 'Almost on rock', says Loïc, 'very straight'. Drinking range: 2021 - 2030 L&S (Nov 2018)
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(from a .08 ha parcel; 50% stems). A slightly riper yet still quite cool and ultra-floral nose of plum, dark currant and earth precedes the intense, detailed and slightly bigger and richer medium-bodied flavors that deliver fine length on the mildly austere and dusty finale. As it often is at this stage, this impressively chiseled and stony effort is very compact and will need extended clearing to unwind. Drinking range: 2032 - Rating: 91-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2019)
From a small parcel that touches Ruchottes-Chambertin and Mazis-Chambertin, and which is exposed quite differently from the rest of this premier cru, the 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny was vinified with 60% whole cluster and matured in one new 350-liter barrel. The wine offers up aromas of smoky berry fruit, dark chocolate, orange rind and spices, followed by a full-bodied, velvety palate with a broad, fleshy attack that segues into a beautifully tensile, mineral mid-palate and finish. It's one of the Domaine's rarest bottlings but it will be well worth seeking out. Rating: 92-94 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate(Jan 2019)
The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fonteny 1er Cru includes two-thirds whole bunch fruit and is raised entirely in new oak. It has a clean and pure bouquet. The oak is actually well integrated, with copious black cherries, blueberry and crushed violet aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, a fine bead of acidity, quite dense and grippy but with a fine mineral-driven finish. It will require six to eight years in bottle but this should turn out very fine. Drinking range: 2025 - 2040 Rating: 91-93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com(Jan 2019)
Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py
Domaine Dugat-Py, along with only DRC, Roumier, Rousseau and Leroy, is rated in the top Three Star category by the 'Classement' published by the Revue du Vin de France. These are the essence of robust Burgundy, wines of huge scale and concentration. Patience is required, so lay down a few grand bottles for your dotage.
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