2017 1er Cru Poruzot Dessus Domaine Rémi Jobard
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
This has great feel and poise. Lovely clean firm fruit. Spiced pear and green melon with gooseberry lick too. Pure, high toned and really nervy energy all driving along a substantial weight of fruit. A creamy feel, that will slowly spread and emerge to be really decadent. Power and restraint for now. Impressive. Drinking range: 2021 - 2026 L&S (Nov 2018)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
(from .50 ha parcel). A pungent and distinctly cool nose offers up notes of green fruit, grapefruit, herbal tea and the classic hazelnut nuances. There is excellent size, weight and punch to the larger-scaled flavors that possess evident power and muscle on the robust and persistent if slightly warm finish. Drinking range: 2025 - Rating: 90-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2019)
The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots Dessus was the most disrupted by its recent fining, but again, its quality was clearly apparent. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of blanched almonds, green apples, white flowers and honeycomb, the wine is medium to full-bodied with an ample, fleshy profile that's tempered by good underlying concentration and cut, concluding with a long, expansive finish. This will be quite giving out of the gates but typically tenses up nicely with bottle age. Rating: 92-94 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2019)
Some liquorice on the nose. And really quite thrilling life and composition – much more thrilling than the Genevrières. Really exciting with a beginning, middle and end to it. Drinking range: 2021 - 2032 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2019)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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