2017 Chevalières Domaine Rémi Jobard
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Remi's vines here in Chevalières were planted in 1940. On the nose there is a whiff of smart, toasty oak for now. On the palate the juice is bright with a good citrus core, with some pineapple too, really satisfying hit, there is lots to like in its vim and vigour, but there is a soft underside too. Ripe and generous, this amplitude is soft and sexy with spice and kick. A creamy feel. Great energy and drive - this will really reward patience. Drinking range: 2022 - 2028 L&S (Nov 2018)
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(from vines planted in 1940). An ultra-fresh, pure and elegant nose flashes airy notes of essence of green apple, mineral reduction, acacia blossom and plenty of citrus influence. The racy and beautifully well-detailed flavors are at once lacy and delicate while exhibiting lovely persistence on the well-balanced finale. This needs to add a bit of depth to merit the upper end of my projected range but it should if it’s allowed to age. Drinking range: 2024 - Rating: 89-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2019)
The 2017 Meursault Les Chevalières wafts from the glass with aromas of sweet citrus fruit, white peach, almond paste and oyster shell. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and satiny, with excellent depth and dimension, the incisive acids that typically characterize wines from this site nicely cloaked in fleshy fruit and only asserting themselves on the precise, almost edgy finish. Rating: 91-93 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2019)
This is pure and tight and very zesty. Lemon sherbet. It has a really nice sweet minerality...very vibrant - lots of vibration. Long salty finish. Pithy. Umm nice. Drinking range: 2020 - Rating: 16.75 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Dec 2018)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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