MOREY SAINT DENIS
2017 Grains Fins Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Colour | Red |
Origin | France, Burgundy |
District | Côte d'Or |
Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
Village | Morey Saint Denis |
ABV | 12.5% |
Usually quite a generous feel here as the vines have a good sunny exposition. This is a blend of 2 parcels in ‘Les Crais Gillons’ and so Grains Fins is a cuvée name, which is very appropriate as there is a very fine feel to the juice. This Morey is so pretty on the attack. Really nicely fine-tuned. Yet backed by lusciously ripe fruit. On the red and blue berry spectrum. Fresh and with some grip and intensity to the core. Elegant and bright, so attractive already - but that finesse and fruit weight will come together even more, with a moment in bottle. 10% New wood. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027 L&S (Nov 2018)
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Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Stéphane's is a small domaine, a mere 4.5 hectares, with one full hectare of that in regional wine - Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne - but it is blessed with two Grands Crus and also a long history of not messing with nature. No pesticides have ever been used on this land, and the plants are nearly all the old 'Pinot tordu' - twisted Pinot with its gnarly stems which are less vigorous than the modern clones and said by many to make wines with more finesse.
Stéphane chaptalizes only to extend fermentations - these are wines which his father Jean-Paul used to describe as 'sage en alcool' - from 12 to 13% - the old vines do not make much alcohol. Wood use is also discreet, even though Stéphane has increased the proportion, he does not exceed 50% new wood on the Grands Crus, 25% on the Premiers Crus and on the village appellations, 15% new wood for one year only, then all into older barrels.
Stéphane says that he aims to make wines with more richness than his father's, 'but not black angular wines which have less relief. Wines which leave your mouth clean and clear, refreshed and revived and, above all, wanting another glass'. He destems 100%, gives the grapes a six-day maceration, then a classical fermentation with just two pigeages, and a little remontage (pumping over) at the end.
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