BONNES MARES
2018 Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin
| Grapes | Pinot Noir |
| Colour | Red |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
| Village | Chambolle Musigny |
| Classification | Grand Cru |
| ABV | 13.5% |
| Vineyard | Bonnes Mares |
The super-harmony of the true blue Grand cru. Supple and finest grain it has a lift and freshness which belies the weight and volume. Extraordinary freshness, totally complete and rather wonderful. Elegant and long. 3 barrels only. L&S (Nov 2019)
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This is also very 2018 in style with its notably ripe liqueur-like aromas of cassis, plum, violet and warm earth. There is excellent volume and a taut muscularity to the powerful broad-shouldered flavors that are blessed with copious amounts of dry extract that also serve to buffer the very firm tannic spine shaping the hugely long and youthfully austere finale. This too is a ‘buy and forget that you own it’ wine. Drinking range: 2038 - Rating: 94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2020)
The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru contains around 40% whole bunch. It has an intense, almost precocious bouquet of blueberries, dates, raspberry preserve and terra-cotta-like aromas. The medium-bodied palate features a sweet core of blue fruit. An almost nubile Bonnes-Mares with a luscious, sexy, saturated finish and great depth, if not the precision and tension of the best wines from this vineyard. Very fine. Drinking range: 2023 - 2045 Rating: 93-95 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2020)
Pure dark damson fruit. Slightly charry black plum. Ripe blackberries with a hint of oak char. There’s purity even with all this ripeness. Dry tannic finesse and the tannins already polished. Savoury and lightly charry on the finish but the ripe damsons come back on the finish. Drinking range: 2025 - 2033 Rating: 17++ Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Dec 2019)
Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Joseph Drouhin, founded in 1880 and still family owned, are one of the most well-respected names in Burgundy, especially through their flagship wine, the iconic Clos des Mouches.
A huge part of the Drouhin production comes from their own domaine fruit (78 hectares), and much of the rest comes from contracts such as that with the Marquis de Laguiche, who shook hands with the grandfather of the current generation, agreeing to let him manage his vineyards which included an important part of Le Montrachet; this collaboration endures. Today, the fourth generation is at the helm
Small refinements continue to be made here. The presses have been changed - a reversion to basket pressing for the reds, and for whites the presses are open - along with a number of other growers they are following the trend to think that slight oxidation of the juice before fermentation is not a problem and may add complexity as well as avoiding later problems of premature oxidation in bottle.
For the reds there has been the introduction of selective whole-bunch fermentation in the Côte de Nuits wines. The house style remains one that 'emphasises the natural elegance of great Burgundies' as they describe it. The domaine is all cultivated with an organic and biodynamic approach.
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After the village wines, this shows another level of finesse of structure and supple flow. Fleshy, almost, mineral too, not really a fruit character, just a seamless vinous richness with a delicate freshness to the finis...(read more)
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Sadly the 2017 is the last vintage of this, as the owner is taking it back. What a shame, as it is really impressive! Inviting feel on the attack, with nicely ripe fruit. Good weight to it and nice flowing shape. Just a...(read more)
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