BOURGOGNE CÔTE D'OR BLANC
2018 Vieilles Vignes Domaine Rémi Jobard
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
|Village||Bourgogne Côte d'Or Blanc|
Now upgraded to the 'Bourgogne Côte d'Or' appellation, this is Rémi's big cuvée, which all comes from parcels that border 'village' level vineyards in Meursault, Puligny and Chassagne. Much richer nose, and a much richer palate too - a weight and breadth of fruit, pithy and phenolic, and pure too - straight and citrussy with excellent depth - lots of flavour packed in here. L&S (Oct 2019)
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This too is attractively fresh if somewhat more restrained with its aromas of moderately exotic-tinged fruit that includes white peach and passion fruit. There is a bit more volume to the solidly well-detailed middle weight flavors that exhibit fine length on the citrusy, very dry and linear finale that offers more depth. Worth checking out. Drinking range: 2022 - Rating: 87 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2020)
Cask sample. Much nervier than the regular Bourgogne Blanc 2018 from this address. Fine-boned with length and structure. And truly savoury and Côte d’Or-like. Bravo! QGV Drinking range: 2022 - 2030 Rating: 16.5+ Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2020)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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