2018 1er Cru Montmains Domaine Moreau-Naudet
(10% barrel-aged) Another riot on the palate. Fresh start, builds fast to a more measured ripe-fruited middle There is apple bite, firm peach, curd-like intensity to the citrus line and lovely orange blossom flowers. Some savour too, some seaweed - then gently textured dusty feel adds grip and focus on the back end. Just crunched sea-shell hints pepper the finish. L&S (Dec 2019)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
The 2018 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru is lifted, weightless and airy, and yet there is plenty of power that emerges from thee glass Citrus and floral notes come together in this elegant style of wine. A whole range of floral and citrus notes add character. The 2018 is understated today, but also appears to be holding back much of its potential. Rating: 89-92 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com(Jan 2020)
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Virginie is now really totally confident in her role here, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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