CHÂTEAU CLIMENS

After the frost of 2017 Bérénice Lurton was hoping for a more successful 2018. With the millerandage and the mildew, however, yields were just 5 hl/ha (not the lowest, it has to be said). As usual, this was a true barrel tasting. Barrel #1: Picked October 8th. Alcohol 13.2%, residual sugar 73 g/l (very light for Climens), 14% of the crop. Very pure, orange and tangerine. Straight, simple, chalky orange fruit, feels more like second-wine material, but perhaps important freshness for the blend? Barrel #2: Picked October 9th. Alcohol 13.3%, residual sugar 85 g/l (still light), 14% of the crop. A little more dense, more exotic, with chalky fruit. Almost feels Alsatian. Barrel #3: Picked October 10th & 11th. Alcohol 13.7%, residual sugar 75 g/l (still light), 14% of the crop. Denser still, honey and beeswax now, but cool, fresh, bitter and acid-bright. Barrel #4: Picked October 11th & 12th. Alcohol 13%, residual sugar suddenly up to 143 g/l (more like it), 14% of the crop. A pungent and minerally nose, oranges and beeswax, candied fruits, sweet and bitter. A very different character after just one day. Barrel #5: Picked October 12th. Alcohol 13.2%, residual sugar 131 g/l, 7% of the crop. Just four barrels picked on this day. Smoky, minerally, dusty, textured, with pithy orange zest and peach skin. Barrel #6: This was picked nearly two weeks later, on October 24th & 25th, after the rains and after the botrytis had set it. Alcohol 13.2%, residual sugar 209 g/l (serious concentration now), 16% of the crop. An explosive character here; beeswax, toasted nut, caramelised peach, sweet and viscous. Great botrytis character. Barrel #7: Also picked October 24th & 25th. Alcohol 14%, residual sugar 165 g/l, 14% of the crop. Smoky, minerally, botrytis intensity. Lovely elegance, poised with minerals and acids. Very complete. Barrel #8: Picked October 26th. Alcohol 14%, residual sugar 153 g/l, 14% of the crop. Smoky, perfumed, floral, mineral, polished, firm, with a good backbone of structure. The most striking feature of the tasting at Climens this year was the progression, from a light start, to a concentrated finish. Less homogeneity than usual, but still very fine potential. As usual, to reflect the nature of this tasting, I have added a note of caution to my score. Rating: 95 - 97? Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2019)