2019 1er Cru Côte de Léchet Domaine Denis Pommier
|Vineyard||Côte de Léchet|
Chalky terroir, old vines, faces south-east in the same sector as the Croix aux Moines. 20% is aged in (old) barrels for a year. Super-bright and fresh, yet fully ripe and there's no austerity - it's pure pleasure. Drinking range: 2021 - 2025 L&S (Oct 2020)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
Grainy and active on the palate, this is a chewy wine with structure and girth. There is fresh acidity on the finish and this pulls it all into line and lengthens proceedings, but the mid-palate is where much of the action is and this makes Côte de Léchet a rather excitable and ebullient wine. Drinking range: 2021 - 2025 Rating: 17/20 Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Oct 2021)
The 2019 Chablis Côte de Léchet 1er Cru is very sultry and backward on the nose, featuring traces of white flower and citrus peel, and it gains energy and tension in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a saline entry that dovetails into quite a concentrated, "fat" midpalate, where it just loses some of the tension that I was anticipating. But it displays good matière and grip, and this is still a decent Côte de Léchet that should benefit from a couple of years in bottle. Drinking range: 2023 - 2035 Rating: 91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Oct 2021)
A little fuller in colour, attractive element of reduction on the nose, then full on white fruit, a very generous mouthful “but I reckon we are in Chablis though”, says Denis. Tasted: September 2020 *** Rating: 89 - 91 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jan 2021)
Domaine Denis Pommier
Founded when the Pommiers inherited 2 hectares of vines in 1990. Isabelle and Denis bottled their first wine in 1994 and now have 23 hectares of vineyards, which are certified organic (which sadly cost them dearly in terms of lost crop in 2016 and 2017) and run according to biodynamic principles. Further reading is available in the form of Denis' book 'Les Larmes de Ma Vigne', published in 2020.
The Petit Chablis is a model of brisk freshness - made entirely in stainless steel - while the Premier Crus in benefit from a small amount of barrel-fermentation and élevage. The two named 'lieu-dits' of Chablis 'village', Les Reinettes and Croix aux Moines, are about a hectare in total. The Troësmes is within the larger premier cru 'Beauroy'. The Pommiers think this 'best bit' deserves to be identified by its correct name. It is relatively rounder, while the Côte de Léchet is the one for fans of the slatier, crystalline side of minerality. Keep either of the premiers crus for four to six years.
Petit Chablis 9.5 ha (+ 2 planted not yet in production)
Chablis Reinettes and Chablis Croix aux Moines 1ha - a north-facing slope which catches the sun late in the day. Reinettes is on pure Kimmeridgian clay, under Croix au Moines, which is on a thinner soil at the top of the hill, both in the same sector as Côte de Léchet.
Chablis 1er cru Troësmes 1.8ha - white marl, facing due south.
Chablis 1er cru Cote de Léchet 1.1 ha - chalky, south-east-facing.
Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume .8 ha - a very steep hot south-west facing slope.
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