2019 1er Cru Forêts Domaine Moreau-Naudet
The third Premier Cru in the tasting, and this seems the most 'Chablis'-like, tight and as mineral as you like. Not giving much away in terms of fruit, but the minerality is not severe either - long mouth-watering finish. Drinking range: 2023 - 2032 L&S (Oct 2020)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
The 2019 Chablis Fôrets 1er Cru has a light nose with touches of yellow plum, white peach and light smoky scents. The palate is well balanced with a lightly spiced entry, orange rind and a dab of sea salt towards the finish that urges you back for another sip. Very fine. Drinking range: 2022 - 2029 Rating: 90 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)
A fresh golden yellow in colour. The clay delivers a richer floral style, summer flowers, yet the Chablis structure is totally there. This is a wine, which grows and grows and deserves time to unfold. All white fruit. Excellent aftertaste. Tasted: September 2020 **** Rating: 91 - 93 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jan 2021)
Still contains a little bit of CO2. Creamy, rich and deep in ripe-fruit aroma. Though it still has a tangy note with some of the stone-dust of Chablis. Intense, spicy and broad, yet with terrific freshness. A great example of a very specific style for the region. Fresh and very spicy on the long finish. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030 Rating: 17 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2021)
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was a vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Virginie is now really totally confident in her role here, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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