|Vineyard||Montée de Tonnerre|
After the streamlined straightness of the Forêts, this is spicy, and has an ample richness, a deep complexity. Lots of wine here, gourmand and salivating. Drinking range: 2022 - 2032 L&S (Oct 2020)
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The domaine has two plots in Chapelots of equal size, one in old vines one younger. The blend is made up with a preponderance of the old vines as, some of the grapes from the other plot are, sold off in bulk. Clear fresh and pale. Quite a steely nose, not showing too much of the season’s sunshine here, the steel is out in force. Interesting. More supple than tense, but balanced. Tasted: September 2020 *** Rating: 90 - 92 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jan 2021)
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was a vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Virginie is now really totally confident in her role here, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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