2019 1er Cru Montmains Domaine Moreau-Naudet
Tasted after the Vaillons, and there seems to be more to this in every way - a shape-shifting, moving play of salinity, fresh mineral and lots of appetising mouthwatering fruit too. Complex and impressive. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030 L&S (Oct 2020)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
The domaine has one plot in Montmains itself, two in, butteaux and one in Vieux Mulot, old vines across the piece. The sample taken from tank has not yet fallen clear and has a grilled hazelnut reduction. However we can already see the quality in the generous depth of ripe fruit supplemented by a surge of energy at the back. Full-bodied, almost spicy, with a tasty. long finish. Tasted: September 2020 **** Rating: 90 - 93 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jan 2021)
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was a vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Virginie is now really totally confident in her role here, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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