From a vineyard of white marl which faces due south - Troësmes is the best part of 1er Cru Beauroy, which overlooks their home village of Poinchy. They say this is the wine that has changed the most simce they converted to organic - there's the fat style you'd expect from the position, but also salinity and finesse. Drinking range: 2021 - 2025 L&S (Oct 2020)
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The 2019 Chablis Troesmes 1er Cru has a fine, well-defined bouquet of gunflint and citrus peel scents, focused and finely honed. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite concentrated but never overwhelming. Lightly spiced toward the finish, which lingers in the mouth. This should age well in bottle if you can resist temptation. Drinking range: 2022 - 2034 Rating: 91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)
My pick from the Pommier line-up was this succulent Troësmes. With a slightly fuller frame and a touch of exoticism, this was the wine which stood out as it combined open, welcoming fruit with typical Pommier rigidity on the finish. Rating: 17.5 Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Jan 2021)
Pale lemon, slightly reductive nose, just a touch of sulphur. Starts discreetly then fills out, a liquorice note behind, touch of salinity unusual for Troesmes Tasted: September 2020 *** Rating: 88 - 91 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jan 2021)
Domaine Denis Pommier
Founded when the Pommiers inherited 2 hectares of vines in 1990. Isabelle and Denis bottled their first wine in 1994 and now have 23 hectares of vineyards, which are certified organic (which sadly cost them dearly in terms of lost crop in 2016 and 2017) and run according to biodynamic principles. Further reading is available in the form of Denis' book 'Les Larmes de Ma Vigne', published in 2020.
The Petit Chablis is a model of brisk freshness - made entirely in stainless steel - while the Premier Crus in benefit from a small amount of barrel-fermentation and élevage. The two named 'lieu-dits' of Chablis 'village', Les Reinettes and Croix aux Moines, are about a hectare in total. The Troësmes is within the larger premier cru 'Beauroy'. The Pommiers think this 'best bit' deserves to be identified by its correct name. It is relatively rounder, while the Côte de Léchet is the one for fans of the slatier, crystalline side of minerality. Keep either of the premiers crus for four to six years.
Petit Chablis 9.5 ha (+ 2 planted not yet in production)
Chablis Reinettes and Chablis Croix aux Moines 1ha - a north-facing slope which catches the sun late in the day. Reinettes is on pure Kimmeridgian clay, under Croix au Moines, which is on a thinner soil at the top of the hill, both in the same sector as Côte de Léchet.
Chablis 1er cru Troësmes 1.8ha - white marl, facing due south.
Chablis 1er cru Cote de Léchet 1.1 ha - chalky, south-east-facing.
Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume .8 ha - a very steep hot south-west facing slope.
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