2015 CLOS DES LAMBRAYS Grand Cru Domaine des Lambrays, Lea & Sandeman

CLOS DES LAMBRAYS

2019 Grand Cru Domaine des Lambrays

Grapes Pinot Noir
Colour Red
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Nuits
Village Morey Saint Denis
Classification Grand Cru
ABV 13.5%
Vineyard Clos des Lambrays

The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has a completely different bouquet compared to the 2020. Intense brambly red fruit, black plum, a little earthiness, maybe less mineralite compared to the ‘19. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, quite fresh, more linear than expected. I wonder if this will close down for a few years? Quite compact towards the finish. Still, this is a great success. Drinking range: 2025 - 2048 Rating: 96 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2021)


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(produced from two large parcels of differing vine ages - one that is approximately two-thirds of the blend and is now 50+ years of age and a second, smaller group of vines that is approximately 25+ years of age; made with 80% whole clusters and 50% new wood). An extremely subtle application of wood sets off the intensely floral-scented nose of herbal tea, poached plum, spice elements and a hint of newly turned earth. There is excellent volume to the caressing yet punchy medium weight plus flavors that exude both a lovely minerality and focused power on the delineated and beautifully persistent finish where the only reproach is a hint of wood. 2019 is a fine vintage for Clos des Lambrays and one that should repay extended keeping. Drinking range: 2034 - Rating: 92-95 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2021)

The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is very promising indeed, mingling scents of blood orange, wild berries and plums with notions of exotic spices, wilted rose petals, row cocoa and loamy soil. Full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's deep and multidimensional, with a concentrated, elegantly fleshy core, lively acids, largely concealed tannins and a precise, perfumed finish. Rating: 94-96 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2021)

Jacques has gone with 80% whole bunch and 60% new wood, whereas Thierry Brouin preferred 50% new wood but all of it from François Frères. Jacques has varied his barrel coopers a little more and paid extra attention to the chauffe. We tasted almost all the cuvées and there were radical differences depending on location and vine age. What matters though will be the final blend, of which Jacques prepared me what should be an accurate version. A fine deep and even crimson. Complex bouquet as you might expect after tasting all the components. There is a serene weight to this, with waves of detail. A richer fruit perhaps than before and though the whole bunch percentage is 80% it is much more submerged in the fruit. Starting to get some aromatic top notes, very persistent. Neither acid nor tannins standing out, more the fruit but with a sense of a refined structure too. Very beautiful complex, perfumed finish. I am not going to say that Jacques has gone straightaway back to the great vintage of the ‘20s and ‘30s but there is very considerable promise here. Tasted: November 2020 **** Rating: 93 - 97 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy  (Jan 2021)

Domaine des Lambrays

The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.

The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.

It has been all rather quick change here as Jacques Devauge has taken over here after a short interregnum under Boris Champy. The legacy of Thierry Brouin can still be felt, Jacques decribing him as having been 'clairvoyant' in his approach to the domaine, which has set it up well to deal with challenges of warmer vintages. Jacques seems set to take this estate onward - 'every domaine has to challenge itself to do better', he says. 2019 marks the second year being fully organic - if all goes well they will be certified after another two.

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