CLOS DES LAMBRAYS
2019 Grand Cru Domaine des Lambrays
| Grapes | Pinot Noir |
| Colour | Red |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
| Village | Morey Saint Denis |
| Classification | Grand Cru |
| ABV | 13.5% |
| Vineyard | Clos des Lambrays |
The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru Grand Cru has a very typical bouquet for the vineyard: quite floral in style and predominantly red-fruited, touches of kirsch and black truffle shavings and a light marine scent that emerges with time. The palate has a sweet core of fruit that lends this Morey an almost Vosne-like allure. The whole-bunch is very well integrated. This is a better showing than at the Burgfest tasting just a couple of months earlier. Tasted at the Clos des Lambrays vertical in Morey-Saint-Denis. Drinking range: 2027 - 2052 Rating: 94 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Mar 2024)
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The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has a completely different bouquet compared to the 2020. Intense brambly red fruit, black plum, a little earthiness, maybe less mineralite compared to the ‘19. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, quite fresh, more linear than expected. I wonder if this will close down for a few years? Quite compact towards the finish. Still, this is a great success. Drinking range: 2025 - 2048 Rating: 96 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2021)
(produced from two large parcels of differing vine ages - one that is approximately two-thirds of the blend and is now 50+ years of age and a second, smaller group of vines that is approximately 25+ years of age; made with 80% whole clusters and 50% new wood). An extremely subtle application of wood sets off the intensely floral-scented nose of herbal tea, poached plum, spice elements and a hint of newly turned earth. There is excellent volume to the caressing yet punchy medium weight plus flavors that exude both a lovely minerality and focused power on the delineated and beautifully persistent finish where the only reproach is a hint of wood. 2019 is a fine vintage for Clos des Lambrays and one that should repay extended keeping. Drinking range: 2034 - Rating: 92-95 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2021)
The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is very promising indeed, mingling scents of blood orange, wild berries and plums with notions of exotic spices, wilted rose petals, row cocoa and loamy soil. Full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's deep and multidimensional, with a concentrated, elegantly fleshy core, lively acids, largely concealed tannins and a precise, perfumed finish. Rating: 94-96 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2021)
Domaine des Lambrays
The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.
The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.
It has been all rather quick change here as Jacques Devauge has taken over here after a short interregnum under Boris Champy. The legacy of Thierry Brouin can still be felt, Jacques decribing him as having been 'clairvoyant' in his approach to the domaine, which has set it up well to deal with challenges of warmer vintages. Jacques seems set to take this estate onward - 'every domaine has to challenge itself to do better', he says. 2019 marks the second year being fully organic - if all goes well they will be certified after another two.
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