|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
Again the creamy weight, a cool expression and absolutely no sign of the 14.5% that this unsurprisingly weighs in at - although it is full of glycerine smooth richness there's salinity and freshness too, to give it all energy and drive. Drinking range: 2032 - 2050 L&S (Oct 2020)
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The 2019 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru has more depth and complexity compared directly with the Echézeaux, a mixture of red and black fruit, cedar and tobacco, broody at first but opening nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent fleshy red fruit on the opening, laced with orange rind, brown spices and a touch of truffle. Good depth and muscle towards the finish, maybe missing the precision of the best examples in 2019, though impressive in terms of persistence. Excellent. Drinking range: 2023 - 2038 Rating: 92-94 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)
Discreet touches of wood and menthol are present on the slightly more deeply pitched and attractively spiced black berry fruit aromas that include iron-infused warm earth notes. The succulent yet overtly powerful big-bodied flavors are blessed with ample dry extract if not the same power on the very firm, concentrated and austere finish where noticeable warmth arises. This is also unapologetically old school in style, and it won’t be for everyone. Drinking range: 2039 - Rating: 89-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2021)
Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.
The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.
The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Mâconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Côte de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcelin Pommard, in the same way.
Yves, opinionated and laconical as ever, dismisses those who make pale wines by 'infusion' and says that failing to get the whole bunches properly ripe - and using all the bunch - is failing to get everything the terroir can offer. The wines he makes are dark, richly concentrated, and often hard to taste in their development, but experience shows that they age brilliantly
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