|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
Nose of fresh cassis and blackberry leaf, supple, silky; a cool, restrained and linear expression. For now it closes up on the finish - but all seems to be in place. Drinking range: 2024 - 2035 L&S (Oct 2020)
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From 70+ year old vines, planted between 1945 and 1950. The colour is very similar to Vigne Belle but again the level of intensity is ratcheted up. There is pronounced strawberry fruit here, typical of this sector of Gevrey, very juicy, really very persistent. Tasted: March 2021 **** Rating: 92 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Oct 2021)
Domaine Thierry Mortet
The domaine dates back to 1992, when Domaine Charles Mortet was split between Thierry and his brother Denis, and Thierry set up on his own with just 4 hectares of vines. Today he has 7.3 ha, of which 6 are red and 1.3 white. Only 4.36 hectares are Gevrey or Chambolle, the rest being a small parcel of Marsannay Blanc and regionals - Bourgogne Rouge and Blanc, Aligoté and Passetoutgrain.Thierry continues to be praised in the French press without ever quite seeming to crack the influential American journalists. It may be simply because he is a bit short of fancy appellations - one little cuvée of Grand Cru would no doubt do his reputation a lot of good - but might also put his prices up, and these remain very modest.
In the vineyard, Thierry has been certified organic since 2007, but really this was just an official stamp on what had been the practices of the domaine since the beginning, and he is working towards biodynamic certification. In the cellar, the grapes are entirely de-stemmed, and given four or five days of cold maceration are followed by the fermentation, with just a touch of cooling to keep the temperature around 31-33C (below 35, at least), and two pigeages a day. The total time in vat can be as little as 17 days. The wines then go into barrel, all second use or older for the Bourgogne, with 30% new wood on the Gevrey, and 50% on the Clos Prieur, for a period of around sixteen months.
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