|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
The fattest of all the 2019s. Not giving away much on the nose in October, nor really on the palate - a sleek fat envelope. Slowly citrus freshness appears and it's all in powerful movement and length. 20% of the volume is in new barrels - the rest is in the big foudres. Drinking range: 2025 - 2035 L&S (Oct 2020)
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Ripe, fresh and naturally exotic aromas of white and yellow orchard fruit, acacia and jasmine tea. The finer if less concentrated middle weight flavors brim with both minerality and a refreshing salinity on the elegant, indeed almost delicate, bone-dry and gorgeously persistent finish. Despite very much being a wine of finesse, this is also going to need at least a decade of cellaring to arrive at its peak. Drinking range: 2029 - Rating: 93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2021)
The 2019 Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru displays much more tension and terroir expression compared to the Charmes, walnut and hazelnut eventually emerging with time. The palate is very well balanced with orange cordial, apricot and light peachy notes. Very, very drinkable, although I would have liked more nerve and tension on the finish. Drinking range: 2022 - 2029 Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)
Cask sample. Tingly, lively nose. With real excitement on the palate and a mild suggestion of herbs and spring undergrowth. True to climat. With sincerity and an edge. Extract but no heat and no obvious alcohol. Good balance of acidity and fruit. Drinking range: 2024 - 2034 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2021)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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