|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
|Village||Morey Saint Denis|
(from a .70 ha total of the 1ers La Riotte, Clos Sorbé and Le Village plus a small proportion of young vines Clos des Lambrays; 50% whole cluster). Moderate reduction is enough to mask the underlying fruit at present, but it does seem ripe. Otherwise there is more volume and richness to the delicious, textured and sappy medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a youthfully austere, palate coating and sneaky long finish. Note that this is sufficiently structured and well-balanced to reward at least a decade of cellaring. Drinking range: 2029 - Rating: 90-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2021)
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The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Loups is promising, bursting from the glass with a dramatic bouquet of cassis, wild berries, blood orange, peonies, spices and incense. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with lively acids and powdery tannins, it concludes with a sapid, subtly carnal finish. Rating: 91-93 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2021)
This includes the youngest vines (2000) of the grand cru declassified, which will account for 40% of the 1er cru. Delicious fresh mid purple, lovely strawberry notes, 50% whole bunch. Not massive, but detailed and balanced, a touch of spice behind, fruit is certainly on the soft side, a tannin or two and fair acidity. Tasted: November 2020 **** Rating: 91 - 94 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jan 2021)
The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Loups 1er Cru comes from La Riotte, Les Sorbets and Le Village. The 50% whole bunch lends this much more complexity and freshness compared to the Village Cru - white pepper and discrete loamy aromas unfolding from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity here with a fresh, quite saline finish. This is a big and tangible step up from the Village Cru. Drinking range: 2024 - 2038 Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2020)
Domaine des Lambrays
The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.
The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.
It has been all rather quick change here as Jacques Devauge has taken over here after a short interregnum under Boris Champy. The legacy of Thierry Brouin can still be felt, Jacques decribing him as having been 'clairvoyant' in his approach to the domaine, which has set it up well to deal with challenges of warmer vintages. Jacques seems set to take this estate onward - 'every domaine has to challenge itself to do better', he says. 2019 marks the second year being fully organic - if all goes well they will be certified after another two.
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