|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
|Village||Morey Saint Denis|
(from La Bidaude and En la Rue de Vergy, both of which sit high on the slope above Clos des Lambrays and Clos de Tart). Pretty, cool and elegant aromas feature notes of both red and blue pinot fruit, spice and soft floral wisps. There is very fine volume to the middle weight flavors as the low yields of 2019 are easily discernible while the underlying tension makes the palate impression all the more appealing. I like the refreshing salinity and overall, this is a very good Morey villages built for mid-term cellaring. Drinking range: 2026 - Rating: 89-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2021)
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Aromas of smoky berry fruit, orange rind, raw cocoa and warm spices introduce the 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis Village, a medium to full-bodied, bright and vibrant wine with fine depth at the core, powdery tannins, tangy acids and good length on the finish. This is as good a communal bottling as I can remember tasting at this estate. Rating: 89-91 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2021)
All destemmed. Medium deep red, a rather light nose, not much change from the past thus far. More purity on the palate though, with a sweet deep red fruit, a little bit of barrel showing behind. There is a sweet length of fruit, ripe raspberry, quite perfumed and with good length. Tasted: November 2020 *** Rating: 88 - 91 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jan 2021)
The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis Village has a generous nose with blackberry and strawberry pastille aromas. Fine delineation, a pretty bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet opening, slightly honeyed in texture, quite concentrated with a ripe mulberry finish. A punter-friendly Morey but no more. Drinking range: 2022 - 2028 Rating: 85-87 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2020)
Domaine des Lambrays
The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.
The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.
It has been all rather quick change here as Jacques Devauge has taken over here after a short interregnum under Boris Champy. The legacy of Thierry Brouin can still be felt, Jacques decribing him as having been 'clairvoyant' in his approach to the domaine, which has set it up well to deal with challenges of warmer vintages. Jacques seems set to take this estate onward - 'every domaine has to challenge itself to do better', he says. 2019 marks the second year being fully organic - if all goes well they will be certified after another two.
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