|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
|Village||Morey Saint Denis|
There's clay here, and it's near the centre of the village, in Clos Solon and Cognées, both with 55 year-old vines. Full-bodied and structured, a concentrated old-vine black fruit expression, broad in the shoulder. Drinking range: 2026 - 2032 L&S (Oct 2020)
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From Les Cognées and Clos Solon, vines aged 55 years and more. Fine full purple. The nose displays a rich succulent, ripe dark raspberry, more structure here. What a weight of fruit, superb density, some oak showing, more structure, a few tannins appearing behind. Drink the Grains Fins first and then start in on this at (minimum) 6 to 8 years old. Tasted: November 2020 4/5 stars Rating: 90-93 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jan 2021)
Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Stéphane's is a small domaine, a mere 4.5 hectares, with one full hectare of that in regional wine - Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne - but it is blessed with two Grands Crus and also a long history of not messing with nature. No pesticides have ever been used on this land, and the plants are nearly all the old 'Pinot tordu' - twisted Pinot with its gnarly stems which are less vigorous than the modern clones and said by many to make wines with more finesse.
Stéphane chaptalizes only to extend fermentations - these are wines which his father Jean-Paul used to describe as 'sage en alcool' - from 12 to 13% - the old vines do not make much alcohol. Wood use is also discreet, even though Stéphane has increased the proportion, he does not exceed 50% new wood on the Grands Crus, 25% on the Premiers Crus and on the village appellations, 15% new wood for one year only, then all into older barrels.
Stéphane says that he aims to make wines with more richness than his father's, 'but not black angular wines which have less relief. Wines which leave your mouth clean and clear, refreshed and revived and, above all, wanting another glass'. He destems 100%, gives the grapes a six-day maceration, then a classical fermentation with just two pigeages, and a little remontage (pumping over) at the end.
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