2019 Noyers Brets Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Laurent's grandfather bought this in the '60s, apparently no one wanted it because it was April and it had not been pruned - the grass was high. A one hectare plot that was split between Laurent and his cousins. Not as open on the nose as the Chassagne, but the underlying shape is all in place with god mineral freshness and concentrated weight too. Possibly a little bit tighter and more refined than some years. Drinking range: 2021 - 2026 L&S (Oct 2020)
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(from a mix of vine ages averaging approximately 15+ years). Firm reduction renders the nose difficult to evaluate so I would suggest giving it a thorough aeration first. More interesting are the notably finer and denser medium weight flavors that are unusually powerful while coating the palate with sappy dry extract on the balanced, delicious and persistent finale. This well-made Puligny villages is worth considering. Drinking range: 2024 - Rating: 89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2021)
The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Noyers Brets has a light Granny Smith and pear scented bouquet, a touch of nettle developing with aeration. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, lightly spiced with stem ginger popping its head up on the finish and tempting you back for more. Very fine. Drinking range: 2022 - 2029 Rating: 90 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)
Aromas of white currants, pear, spring flowers, fresh bread and anise introduce the 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Noyers Brets, a medium to full-bodied, ripe but incisive wine that's rich and concentrated, with tangy acids but a touch of back-end heat that slightly depresses my score. Drinking range: 2022 - 2035 Rating: 89 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2021)
Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
The origins of the Pillot family in Chassagne can be traced back to the eighteenth century, when they seem to have been coopers more than vignerons. In the nineteenth century they abandoned barrel-making in favour of enlarging the property in Chassagne. Fernand and Laurent, who is the fourth generation, added to it again in 1992, and then in 2001 Laurent's wife Marie-Anne inherited half of her family's property, the Pommard domaine of Pothier-Rieusset, and Laurent and his father bought the other half. The domaine now stands at 14.5 hectares of vines across almost the whole length of the Côte de Beaune from Santenay to Beaune.
The Domaine is worked according to organic principles and are ploughed – no chemical weedkillers are used. They have also been members of the Dephy-ECO-phyto group, which works to reduce the number of treatments using copper sulphate, since 2012.
Laurent has always managed to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyard. He has his own plane which he flies to all corners of France, used keep and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band as well as dabbling in Mayoral duties - on top of being a father of three, Anaïs, Adrien and Eugène. They are all mad about the alps and disappear up the mountains at regular intervals.
Laurent's eldest son Adrien has been travelling the world making wine all over the place for the last few years having completed his training in Beaune. Bringing back lessons learnt in Australia, South Africa and California (and from a stint at Lea & Sandeman), During harvest Adrien is now the one in the winery while Laurent takes charge of the picking team. The wines have long been L&S favourites in both red and white - they represent excellent value, and they age very well too, despite being attractive young. The whites are precise and pure, and not lacking for body and generosity, while the reds are velvety and juicy, beautifully balanced even if drunk young on their expressive Pinot fruit. The domaine was rightfully heralded in Decanter Magazine as 'an address that deserves to be better-known'. Great value and real pleasure across their range.
Read more about Adrien here in this recent Forbes article here.
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