|Côte de Beaune
|Clos des Mouches
This elegant version is packed with ripe black cherry, plum, sandalwood, cedar and spice flavors. Its beam of acidity keeps everything focused as mineral and leafy vegetal notes emerge. Shows fine balance, with a lingering aftertaste of fruit, licorice and spice. Drinking range: 2025 - 2042 Rating: 94 Bruce Sanderson, The Wine Spectator (Feb 2023)
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So much ripe mirabelle with nuances of honeycomb, candied citrus, vanilla bean, licorice and more. Stunning concentration with everything balanced on a pinhead. The underlying structure is enormous, but beautifully integrated in the rich and full body. Bright and pure finish that extends a really long way out. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Rating: 96 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Jul 2022)
Ripe aromas of apple and pear compote possess more prominent floral nuances along with hints of wood toast and just sliced fennel. There is very fine volume to the fleshy and plump flavors that also retain good precision thanks to a similar citrus-tinged acid spine on the sneaky long finish. This is a wine of contrasts as the mid-palate is rich to the point of opulence, yet the balance is impeccable. Note that this should drink well relatively early on. Drinking range: 2026 - Rating: 90-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2022)
The 2020 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1er Cru has a pretty bouquet, a little more floral than when I tasted it in January. The palate is very well-balanced, quite elegant in style with peach skin and a touch of stem ginger on the finish. Lovely. Drinking range: 2023 - 2039 Rating: 91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (May 2022)
Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Joseph Drouhin, founded in 1880 and still family owned, are one of the most well-respected names in Burgundy, especially through their flagship wine, the iconic Clos des Mouches.
A huge part of the Drouhin production comes from their own domaine fruit (78 hectares), and much of the rest comes from contracts such as that with the Marquis de Laguiche, who shook hands with the grandfather of the current generation, agreeing to let him manage his vineyards which included an important part of Le Montrachet; this collaboration endures. Today, the fourth generation is at the helm
Small refinements continue to be made here. The presses have been changed - a reversion to basket pressing for the reds, and for whites the presses are open - along with a number of other growers they are following the trend to think that slight oxidation of the juice before fermentation is not a problem and may add complexity as well as avoiding later problems of premature oxidation in bottle.
For the reds there has been the introduction of selective whole-bunch fermentation in the Côte de Nuits wines. The house style remains one that 'emphasises the natural elegance of great Burgundies' as they describe it. The domaine is all cultivated with an organic and biodynamic approach.
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