CHABLIS
2020 1er Cru Forêts Domaine Moreau-Naudet
Grapes | Chardonnay |
Colour | White |
Origin | France, Burgundy |
District | Chablis |
Classification | 1er Cru |
ABV | 13% |
Vineyard | Forêts |
The Forêt seems to be 'somewhere in the middle' in style, with the clarity of expression of the Montmains, and perhaps a dryer more mineral personality - it hangs together well and stays impressively well on the finish. Drinking range: 2023 - 2033 L&S (Oct 2021)
12 | ||
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles of wine (or 9 litre equivalent) or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified (4.5 litres) to get the discounted 'case price' for each bottle.
This precise, focused wine sees no new oak, allowing the terroir from these two parcels of Forêts to shine through. The layered palate has a slightly tugging texture that tingles from the start and through the persistent finish. Tasting of apple core and star fruit, some oyster shell tones sneak in on the back palate. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030 Rating: 94 Christy Canterbury MW - TimAtkin.com (Feb 2022)
Domaine Moreau-Naudet
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Mimi's daughter Neil (Nelle) is a bright new addition to the team here and together there is a calm confidence in what they are doing, and the wines - full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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