CLOS DES LAMBRAYS

(produced from two large parcels of differing vine ages - one that is approximately two-thirds of the blend and is now 50+ years of age and a second, smaller group of vines that are approximately 25+ years of age; made with 80% whole clusters and 80% new wood). Restrained, cool and elegant aromas are comprised of ripe poached plum, dark currant, anise, rose petal and a hint of earth. The succulent, concentrated and relatively powerful larger-scaled flavors exude evident salinity on the firm, serious, complex and beautifully persistent finale. Patience strongly suggested. Drinking range: 2035 - Rating: 93-95 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2022)

I tasted five of the 11 individual parcellaire cuvées – everything makes it in to the final blend except for the young vine block notes in the Morey 1er Cru. Jacques is adamant that the final wine should respect the totality of the Clos. Then we tried the blend: already, this seems to have taken on a deeper colour than any of the individual cuvees. Deep dense dark fruit, with a powerful underlying dark raspberry with some more lifted rose petal notes. Probably 85% whole bunch overall but the power of the fruit stops this taking the lead. It does underpin the whole though, especially on the palate, while there is also a crystalline limestone purity behind the sweetly ripe red berry fruit. The 2020 Lambrays has more heart to it than most vintages I have tasted in barrel. There is a fine long finish, a little liquorice touch, a complex and ageworthy Lambrays. Delicacy with a strong tensile thread. Tannins by analysis are very significant but you don’t see them. From now on, the wine will spend a second winter in barrel each year. I toyed with not giving the wine 5 stars, to leave the new team something to aim at, but the wine merits the top classification. Tasted: December 2021 Rating: 96-98 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy  (Jan 2022)

The 2020 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru comprises of 80% to 85% whole bunch this year. Since 2019, Jacques Devauges has utilised smaller tanks to vinify subplots separately and raised in several cooperages rather than just François Frères (60% new oak). It has a classically-styled bouquet, very well defined, very fresh, red berry fruit with touches of shucked oyster shell, light loamy aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with very pliant tannins, very fresh and full of tension. The mineralité clearly comes through on the finish that is far more precise than previous vintages, long and tender on the aftertaste. Cool, calm and collected, this is a riveting Clos des Lambrays. Drinking range: 2026 - 2060 Rating: 95-97 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2021)