SHAY’S FLAT CABERNET SAUVIGNON
2022 Landsborough Joshua Cooper
| Grapes | Cab Sauv |
| Colour | Red |
| Origin | Australia, Victoria |
| District | Pyrenees |
| Sub-district | Landsborough |
| ABV | 13% |
From Matthew's TOP 100 WINES OF AUSTRALIA 2026. Urgent, spiky, punkish and restless, making this a slender wine with agitated tannins under fresh woodsmoke wafted over fresh-picked blackberries. It is gentle, wistful, dreamy and magical. Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Mar 2026)
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One of the delights of good cabernet is its perfume – the cassis, the blackberries and leafy freshness. This has all that but with savouriness throughout. Some cured meats, salty licorice, stony with a whiff of eucalyptus. Medium-bodied, with lovely tannins leaving a drying imprint on the finish. Rating: 95 Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion (Aug 2024)
Viticulture: Certified organic The Shay’s Flat Vineyard is situated on an elevated and picturesque ridge in the heart of the Pyrenees. A distinctively Australian setting with the vineyard surrounded by wheat paddocks, native bushland and scrub, the 20+ year old vines are rooted deep into mineral rich shale, quartz and mudstone soils, growing powerful, yet detailed fruit. It is the second to ripen of the three Cabernet Sauvignon sites. I have a distinct soft spot for the Cabernet wines produced in the 70s and 80s by the pioneering wineries of Central and Western Victoria, many of which seem ageless even now. Once hand harvested the fruit was entirely de-stemmed, then partially foot crushed before transfer to open fermenters where it remained for three weeks. The must was allowed to soak until natural fermentation commenced and was then extracted with a combination pumping over, delestage and pigeage before basket pressing. Elevage took place in a combination of new Stockinger 300l (30%) and seasoned thin staved Bordeaux coopered barriques for 12 months, before four months in stainless steel after assemblage. The only addition to the wine is a small dose of sulphur. Deep, dark garnet. Reticent on opening, aeration shows intense sour cherry and cassis, mulberry, lavender and black olive with a sweet mint top note and alluring graphite and terracotta complexity. A compact and powerful palate opens with time to reveal layers of deep dark berry and red cherry fruit, before a rumble of fine layered tannin and cleansing cherry pit acidity with a persistent trail of graphite, dark cocoa and Dutch liquorice. The clarity and length of flavour and added depth and quality of tannin mark this as a very special wine, the best yet from this site. Please decant well prior to drinking, while cellaring will reveal more nuance and complexity.
Joshua Cooper
Josh Cooper was brought up on the Cobaw Ridge wine estate in the Macedon ranges, a cool spot north of Melbourne. However as a winemaker, Josh is 'ploughing his own furrow' (as Huon Hooke put it).
After extensive travel and experience at vineyards as far afield as Domaine JJ Confuron and Chablis, but also closer to home with Yabby Lake and Hanging Rock, Josh started in 2012 by specialising in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Macedon ranges and nearby areas. He has now been led by his admiration of some of the great old 'claret' styles of the 70s and 80s he has tasted, to try his hand at Cabernet as well, including buying fruit from the oldest block (planted in 1970) at Balgownie Vineyards in Bendigo.
A low-intervention winemaker sourcing fruit from organic or biodynamic vineyards where possible, Josh uses SO2 but nothing else, to make whites which are pure and racy (one year in barrel with no lees-stirring), but with enough flesh to be gourmand too. The reds are concentrated, aromatically precise and true to their origins, while remaining beautifully balanced and harmonious, drinkable from the off, but with the Cabernets being capable of long aging like the old wines he so admires.
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