CHABLIS
2023 Domaine Moreau-Naudet
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| Other | Vegetarian, Vegan |
| District | Chablis |
| ABV | 12.5% |
WINE OF THE WEEK ON JancisRobinson.com.
Expressing that sense of place is what makes Chablis, Chablis. Moreau-Naudet do it faithfully, while also reflecting the riper fruit that is a reality of winemaking today.
They farm organically, ferment with ambient yeast and mature their Chablis in stainless steel on the lees for at least 14 months (whereas their premiers crus and grands crus have partial oak maturation). What you get in the glass is therefore Chablis at its purest: lime and baked-apple fruit with a long mineral finish (I wrote ‘saline’, which is adjacent to oyster shell in the tasting lexicon).
So far, so Chablis. But there is fuller body, richer fruit and greater concentration than you might think is typical for that appellation. With warmer weather comes riper grapes, and this 2023 vintage is an accurate depiction of contemporary Chablis, where minerality accompanies fruit that tends more towards more lush flavours rather than the tartness of yesteryear.
Balance remains paramount: at 12.5% alcohol with high acidity, this wine is still a cool-climate Chardonnay, relatively speaking, with the structure of classic Chablis. The intensity and persistence of fruit is what elevates this wine above cheaper examples. I scored it 16.5+, suggesting it will develop greater complexity with bottle age, and the 2022 vintage was scored 16.5 and 17 by Julia and Jancis, respectively.
For a benchmark, modern-day Chablis, look no further.
The 2023 of Moreau-Naudet Chablis is available in at least 10 US states and in the UK via Lea & Sandeman Rating: 16.5+ Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jun 2026)
| 12 | ||
DELIVERY SERVICE
We offer free nationwide delivery on all orders over £150 (excluding Highlands & Islands). Express Delivery options also available.Virginie told us that the 2023s have more acidity across the board than the 2022s, which was a surprising fact. The village Chablis has a lovely nose of ripe apple, white orchard fruits and a touch of confit lemon. Excellent mouthfeel. Ripe fruit, salinity, lovely acidity. Very good effort.L&S (Dec 2024)
Derived from three different locations, Moreau-Naudet’s 2023 Chablis Village opens in the glass to reveal aromas of grapefruit zest, acacia and flint. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied, tangy and textural, concluding with a precise, delicately sapid finish. Similarly to the Petit Chablis, it’s vinified entirely in tank. Rating: 88-90 Kristaps Karlklins, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2026)
The 2023 Chablis Village has an attractive nose with yellow plum and Granny Smith aromas. This is cohesive and has good tension. The palate is well balanced with hints of dried honey and passionfruit. It's tropical toward the finish that might displease purists, though this does have tension throughout. Tasted blind at the BIVB offices in Chablis. Drinking range: 2026 - 2033 Rating: 88 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jul 2025)
Domaine Moreau-Naudet
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 0.58 in Beauregard, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Mimi's daughter Neil (Nelle) is a bright new addition to the team here and together there is a calm confidence in what they are doing, and the wines - full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
- For full delivery details see our Delivery page.
- We offer free nationwide* delivery for all orders over £150 with our own vans. We also offer an express delivery service for an additional charge.
- Order & Collect from any of our 5 London shops. Order by Midnight for collection the next working day from 11am.
- Private wine storage: we offer a full In Bond and Duty Paid private wine storage service - find out more here.
RELATED PRODUCTS
2023 POUILLY FUISSÉ Madrigal Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
Mâconnais Burgundy France 13% White
Chardonnay.
For the Madrigal, Frantz and Caroline choose their best barrels each year and keep only those - this year there are 5 that make the cut. For now this is less expressive than the Pastoral - but just a tad tighter and seri...(read more)
L&S
2021 SAVIGNY LES BEAUNE Blanc Clos du Village Thibault Liger-Belair Successeurs
Côte d'Or Burgundy France 13% White
Chardonnay.
20-30% Pinot Blanc in the vineyard. Long fermentation, so still half-made when we tasted. Good volume and body, it's something a little different, but very likeable. Not very deep soils - it's on pebbles.
L&SORDER COLLECT
ORDER ONLINE AND COLLECT FROM ONE OF OUR SHOPS