Chablis has suffered a run of poor harvests in terms of quantity, culminating with the spring frosts that did huge damage to the 2021 vintage. A severe frost episode in early April 2022 did not augur well, but thankfully not all buds were out and so, although in some zones 50% of vines were affected, in fact just 10% of 'fruit' was lost. As a result, 2022 has come as a welcome relief to the growers. As in the rest of Burgundy, the warmth of the year was felt here, with harvests starting in late August at many domaines. However, like in the Côte d’Or, there is a freshness and balance to these wines, and very sensible alcohol levels despite the warm growing conditions. Clever canopy management and finessing optimum picking dates here have become essential to learning how to cope with this ‘new normal’.

The 2022s are wines that are a genuine pleasure to both taste and drink. The Chablis of old they may not be, but they still retain a Chablisien identity separate to that of their more southerly neighbours. It was refreshing to see so many winemakers genuinely pleased with both quality and quantity in a region so hard-hit in recent years, with many comparing it with famed vintages such as 2014. There is a ripeness to the fruit, but the typical Chablis acidity and mineral freshness is still to be found, offering fabulous balance in this very impressive vintage.

David Porter
Lea & Sandeman Buyer

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