‘The Aerodynamics of a Portable Toilet’ vs ‘a Stellar Vinous Treat’

by Charles Lea

This week’s Money Week ‘Wine of The Week’:  2015 GEWURZTRAMINER Domaine Marcel Deiss

We have long quietly moaned about national newspaper editors’ extraordinary spinelessness and double standards when it comes to the price constraints that they impose on their wine writers. Apparently if Victoria Moore or Jane MacQuitty write about remotely aspirational wines (anything not available in a national supermarket or costing more than a fiver) the editors get deluged with whingeing comments asking when they are going to write about wines ordinary mortals can afford. Rather than tell these whingers to go to blazes (as all wines at this price are, at best, rather bland and samey, and frankly if they are that uninterested they could always cut out the cost of the newspaper and save up for a more expensive bottle), they kowtow to them and tell the writers that they can only write about a wine that costs over £20 every three articles – or whatever. And all this in a weekend supplement which has the latest £200k Roller or Ferrari all over the front cover, rather than reviews of second-hand Micras or Renault Twingos, and holidays in the Maldives or Verbier rather than Clacton.

How refreshing therefore that the review of Bentley’s ‘brutish new off-roader’ in this week’s ‘Money Week’ is accompanied on the same page by Matthew Jukes waxing lyrical about Domaine Marcel Deiss’s ‘stellar vinous treat’ of a 2015 Gewurztraminer. Read this page and you can compare the delights of a wine which costs ‘about the same as a dreary bottle of supermarket own-label Champagne’, but delivers ‘terrific balance, impeccable florals and a devastatingly clean and bright finish’, with a vehicle (one hesitates to call it a car) which has ‘the aerodynamics of a portable toilet’, but which costs a ‘too expensive’ £136,200.

Give yourself ‘a jaw-dropping course at a dinner party’ with a few bottles of this (comparative) bargain bottled genius:

2015 GEWURZTRAMINER Domaine Marcel Deiss : £24.95 per bottle or £22.50 per bottle ‘case’ price*.

* at L&S cases may be mixed any way you like.

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