Chalonnais

The frost effect on the reds in the Chalonnais were just as bad as for the whites. As for the whites we are delighted to introduce a small volume of reds of staggering quality from the inestimable Vincent Dureuil-Janthial. The wines that survived the frosts, from Vincent, and from Francois Lumpp, Francois Raquillet and Marie Jacqueson, are some of the great bargains of Burgundy, and come very strongly recommended. We especially enjoyed how immediately appealing all these wines were.

From Givry we loved Lumpp's Crausot 1er Cru which is ripe, rich, glossy and forward. The tastings in Mercurey and Rully were also very impressive and we particularly enjoyed the Mercurey 1er Cru Les Veleys from Raquillet and Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux from Jacqueson. All of these producers offer excellent short to medium term drinking options at extremely modest prices (despite the reduced yields for a second year in a row).


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Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson

Marie Jacqueson, named 'Young Winemaker of the Year' at the Hospices de Beaune as long ago as 2010, now represents the third generation of Jacquesons to be making wine here. Her grandfather Henri started off in the 1946 with a small parcel of Aligoté. Henri was quite a pioneer at a time when Rully was not well-known, the vineyards having been substantially abandoned after the first world war. Paul, Henri's son and father of the current generation, was responsible for the drive to quality which gained the domaine its reputation. He still active in support of his children.

The domaine consists now of 13 hectares of vines, mostly in Rully, but also parcels in Mercurey and Bouzeron. The grapes are harvested by hand and vinified in classical fashion, before an élevage in barrel (up to 25% new wood). Under Paul, and now by his children, the domaine has become adept at a sophisticated use of barrels, the élevage here is key to the quality they consistently achieve, and this rubs off on the negociant 'Cuvée Sélection' which is always beautifully finished.

The white wines are refined and hugely impressive and the reds are a joy - silky and expressive and represent real bargains. 2017 was a warm vintage here - with yields down in volume simply due to the heat - there was some frost in April too - but the Jacquesons were not too badly hit. The intensity of flavour and weight of the juice tell the tale of this warm, dry season very clearly. So there is good richness, but they are nicely balanced too with good tension and clarity - particularly in the whites, while the reds are ample and juicy.

Domaine-Paul-et-Marie-Jacqueson
2017 RULLY 1er Cru Les Préaux Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson

2017 RULLY 1er Cru Les Préaux Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson

This vineyard was planted in 1964-5, but is a recent acquisition for Marie, just below the family's Cloux parcel. Deeper soils and more clay here. Lovely nose. Rich dark cherry juice. A touch ofThis vineyard was planted in 1964-5, but is a recent acquisition for Marie, just below the family's Cloux parcel. Deeper soils and more clay here. Lovely nose. Rich dark cherry juice. A touch of bright cherry-skin 'cut' too. Deep, tingly blackberry flesh. Bright and with good flow. I like this very much. The feel is good too with more precision and texture building and tightening - there is some damson fruit and an almost rooty, more savoury whiff at the end, adding yet another dimension. Drinking range: 2020 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 RULLY 1er Cru Les Cloux Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson

2017 RULLY 1er Cru Les Cloux Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson

Very nicely perfumed. On the nose you are struck with a very classic Pinot Noir Character, but the feel is dark and well ripened. It has a lighter touch in weight - but intensely flavoured darkVery nicely perfumed. On the nose you are struck with a very classic Pinot Noir Character, but the feel is dark and well ripened. It has a lighter touch in weight - but intensely flavoured dark black-currents and nice meaty spice. some clove and wood-spice are delicately done and add another layer of gentle complexity. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 MERCUREY 1er Cru Champs Martin Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson

2017 MERCUREY 1er Cru Champs Martin Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson

Faces due south and so the bright and peppy attack is surprising at first - but then more weight and ripeness builds quite quickly. This is nicely done. An energy and bounce here that is moreFaces due south and so the bright and peppy attack is surprising at first - but then more weight and ripeness builds quite quickly. This is nicely done. An energy and bounce here that is more pronounced than with the other Reds tasted here. It flows on with great momentum and silky edged juice, impressively voluptuous but the juice is just piquant enough. Good measure. Strawberries and some plum meld together well - attractive and satisfying. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine François Raquillet

The Chalonnais proved to be a happy hunting ground for the 2017 vintage and Mercurey was no exception. Francois produces a number of different labels from 11 hectares of mainly old vines and has recently been concentrating on reducing yields and increasing the quality of oak barrels. One might think that all this would send prices shooting north, however, this producer remains one of the true bargains in Burgundy. The 2017 vintage was a pleasure to taste and will be an immediate hit for our not so patient clients! Energy, pretty fruit, mineral and structure. These wines are excellent options for early to medium term drinking.
2017 BOURGOGNE Pinot Noir Domaine François Raquillet

2017 BOURGOGNE Pinot Noir Domaine François Raquillet

Always well priced, the Raquillet Bourgogne has an attractive red cranberry nose. Sappy dark fruit joins on the palate. Quite simple in its approach but with balanced acidity and tannin, this anAlways well priced, the Raquillet Bourgogne has an attractive red cranberry nose. Sappy dark fruit joins on the palate. Quite simple in its approach but with balanced acidity and tannin, this an attractive and easy wine. One to buy in bulk and enjoy guilt-free over the next two to four years. Drinking range: 2018 - 2023L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 MERCUREY Vieilles Vignes Domaine François Raquillet

2017 MERCUREY Vieilles Vignes Domaine François Raquillet

2017 Mercurey, Vieilles Vignes, is a notch up the ladder from the (Bourgogne Rouge) and it is balanced, full and will age well over the short term. With crunchy tannins and bright red cherry fruit2017 Mercurey, Vieilles Vignes, is a notch up the ladder from the (Bourgogne Rouge) and it is balanced, full and will age well over the short term. With crunchy tannins and bright red cherry fruit this is a lovely wine. Rating: 17+ L&S(Jan 2019)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 MERCUREY 1er Cru Les Vasées Domaine François Raquillet

2017 MERCUREY 1er Cru Les Vasées Domaine François Raquillet

From vines over 55 years old, on the middle of a south-facing slope. Slightly muted nose. Plenty of energy on the palate. The wine is tightly knit at this stage but shows lovely elegance and poise.From vines over 55 years old, on the middle of a south-facing slope. Slightly muted nose. Plenty of energy on the palate. The wine is tightly knit at this stage but shows lovely elegance and poise. More density and structure too, on flavours of black fruit. There is a good mineral edge, but it remains gourmand. Drinking range: 2019 - L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 MERCUREY 1er Cru Les Naugues Domaine François Raquillet

2017 MERCUREY 1er Cru Les Naugues Domaine François Raquillet

The classiest - and the most dense - of all François' wines. From a vineyard which is white marl, limestone and clay, vines over forty years old, high up the slope. Cherry is evident on the palateThe classiest - and the most dense - of all François' wines. From a vineyard which is white marl, limestone and clay, vines over forty years old, high up the slope. Cherry is evident on the palate with a stony mineral backbone. Lively but closed. Lots of density but it retains brightness and movement - will be worth waiting for. Drinking range: 2023 - L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 MERCUREY 1er Cru Les Veleys Domaine François Raquillet

2017 MERCUREY 1er Cru Les Veleys Domaine François Raquillet

From a vineyard of over 60 year old vines, high up on an east-south-east facing slope. More up front flavour compared to the Vasées. Good tension. Again, not plush. It has a serious approach.From a vineyard of over 60 year old vines, high up on an east-south-east facing slope. More up front flavour compared to the Vasées. Good tension. Again, not plush. It has a serious approach. Energetic acidity throughout. The mineral character is particularly evident in the finish. 40% new wood here. Cherry fruit, and cherry-skin tannins on the finish. Concentrated fruit mixed with sou-bois, with fine tension. 'It has still got some tannins that are a bit dry', says François, it needs more élevage'. To be bottled in March 2019. Drinking range: 2021 - L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine François Lumpp

François Lumpp started as a grower in the family domaine in 1977, but then separated from his brother and set up on his own with four hectares of vines in 1991. He and his wife Isabelle have gradually grown the vineyard to reach nine and a half hectares. They are delighted that they have now been joined by two of their children, Pierre and Anne-Cécile.

François is a passionate viticulturalist and places great emphasis on making the wine in the vineyards, which are farmed with minimum intervention to allow the terroir to express itself fully. In practice this means very careful choice of plant material to give the highest quality results (often at the expense of yield).

2017 has produced a very generous style for both the whites and the reds in Givry making the tasting from barrel extremely enjoyable. The reds are dominated by rich, glossy dark fruit and fresh acidity. It is no surprise that Tim Atkin described Francois Lumpp as the 'the best producer in Givry.' High praise indeed and luckily for us, this has not been reflected in the price - the Lumpp wines still offers great value for money.

2017 GIVRY 1er Cru à Vigne Rouge Domaine François Lumpp

2017 GIVRY 1er Cru à Vigne Rouge Domaine François Lumpp

A prominent nose of sweet dark fruit and rich wood (70% new oak). Supple on entry the concentration is impressive. The most massive and the most 'serious' of François' reds, seeming more like aA prominent nose of sweet dark fruit and rich wood (70% new oak). Supple on entry the concentration is impressive. The most massive and the most 'serious' of François' reds, seeming more like a Pommard or Volnay. It is richly smooth, the tannins only appearing towards the end, but the sheer bulk of the wine needs their support. The fruit might not be so crunchy and immediate as the other reds but it is carried home by fresh acidity.L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 GIVRY 1er Cru Clos Jus Domaine François Lumpp

2017 GIVRY 1er Cru Clos Jus Domaine François Lumpp

70% new wood. A little more obvious oak on the nose than the Crausot. Good intensity on the palate. The bright, black cherry, sweet, dark fruit is weighty but kept in check by some grippy tannin and70% new wood. A little more obvious oak on the nose than the Crausot. Good intensity on the palate. The bright, black cherry, sweet, dark fruit is weighty but kept in check by some grippy tannin and energetic acidity. The wine has a serious feel to it - slightly leaner. Impressive. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 GIVRY 1er Cru Crausot Domaine François Lumpp

2017 GIVRY 1er Cru Crausot Domaine François Lumpp

Lovely dark rich fruit - mainly sweet blackberry, with a fresh raspberry topnote. Joyful and hedonistic, smooth and dense. Rolls across the mouth seductively. The tannins take a back seat here. ALovely dark rich fruit - mainly sweet blackberry, with a fresh raspberry topnote. Joyful and hedonistic, smooth and dense. Rolls across the mouth seductively. The tannins take a back seat here. A hint of mineral in the background. Lovely length in which the fruit flavours all roll around each other. Drinking range: 2021 - 2028L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

Domaine Dureuil-Janthial is simply the leading domaine of the Côte Chalonnaise. What is more, the astonishing Vincent Dureuil is equally adept at making both white and red wines. Vincent inherited from the Janthial side of his family, who have been in Rully since the eighteenth century. Vincent and his wife Céline took over in 1994. As they say 'because wine is first grown in the vineyard, we have chosen to respect the land and let live the soils and vineyards to produce committed and accurate wines, of great purity and a frank personality.'

The domaine now extends to 20 hectares, 17 in the Côte Chalonnaise (primarily Rully and Mercurey) with 3 hectares in the Côte d'Or, including vines inherited by Céline in Nuits Saint Georges, and some inherited by Vincent in Puligny. The domaine was certified organic in 2009, but after short harvests in 2012 and 2013, Vincent was forced by a late attack of mildew in 2016 to spray with fungicide. The result was that he saved 5 hectares out of the 20, but lost his certification. Stubbornly he immediately set about the three years of 'conversion' he must do before he can be certified again. For this perfectionist, being 'nearly organic' does not quite cut it.

2017 RULLY ROUGE Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

2017 RULLY ROUGE Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

Very like the 2016 from this vineyard, on the fruit, slightly saline, supple and easy but still taut and with a mineral lift.Very like the 2016 from this vineyard, on the fruit, slightly saline, supple and easy but still taut and with a mineral lift. Drinking range: 2019 - L&S(Dec 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 RULLY ROUGE 1er Cru La Fosse Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

2017 RULLY ROUGE 1er Cru La Fosse Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

Firmer, tauter again after the 'Chapitre', showing lots of black fruit ripeness, firm and full structure and density too. Not quite the intensity and drive of the 2016, but this is excellent and willFirmer, tauter again after the 'Chapitre', showing lots of black fruit ripeness, firm and full structure and density too. Not quite the intensity and drive of the 2016, but this is excellent and will drink sooner. Drinking range: 2021 - L&S(Dec 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 RULLY ROUGE 1er Cru Chapitre Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

2017 RULLY ROUGE 1er Cru Chapitre Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

Great intensity of fruit here, a lively balance of tanins, juice and weighty density. Great intensity of fruit here, a lively balance of tanins, juice and weighty density. Drinking range: 2021 - L&S(Dec 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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