2012 1er Cru Genevrières Domaine Rémi Jobard


The jump up to the Genevrières seems bigger than ever with the Poruzots on the back foot. Such class. There's a sort of green streak, but its not greenness in the sense of unripeness, just that it makes it so straight and directed. Considerable volume and concentration. Very rich feel, yet as bracing as a juicy peach, all freshness and juice. So much going on, yet so balanced it gives off a sense of calm, as the opulence balances the exuberance of the flavours. Bravo!L&S (Dec 2013)

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Bright pale yellow. Fruit-driven aromas of lemon peel, orange juice, white peach and pineapple seem a bit youthfully stunted. Tactile and suave in the mouth, conveying a strong impression of extract to the citrus, spice and saline flavors. The broadest of these 2012s but also lively and salty on the very long, spicy finish. I'd give this wine at least five years. Rating: 91(+?) Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Sep 2014)

Here too there is enough residual post-bottling sulfur to notice on the mildly exotic nose that features notes of dried apricot, acacia blossom and spiced Asian tea scents. Here too there is excellent volume and punch to the relatively refined middle weight flavors that exude a lovely minerality onto the saline, balanced and wonderfully long finish. As is often the case this is the best wine in the range and so it is again in 2012. 2019+ Rating: 92 Allen Meadows, (Jun 2014)

This is lovely – in spite of the malic – ripe aromatic palate, rounded, airy, very spicy and perfumed. The finish is very long and perfumed. Fine. From 2017 Rating: 18 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Feb 2014)

You’d be happy buying any of the whites from this domaine in 2012, such is their consistent high quality, but this is Rémy Jobard’s top vineyard and the class comes through in the glass. This is a smoky, taut, gently oaked white that is less opulent and flamboyant than some Genevrières, but it’s long and crisp and very well balanced. 2015-25 Rating: 94 Tim Atkin MW, (Jan 2014)

Slightly creamy character, then the standard apple and green citrus fruit. Edgy acidity, moderately long finish. 2014-2020 Rating: 17 Richard Hemming MW - (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrieres is blessed with another compelling bouquet with a surfeit of mineralite spilling over from the glass. The palate is very harmonious with citrus lemon, orange rind, dovetailing into a tense, bitter lemon finish that is vigorous and persistent. This is a great Genevrieres that should age gracefully over 10 to 15 years Rating: 92-94 Neal Martin, (Jan 2014)

Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.

Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.

Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.


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