2012 1er Cru Les Chenevery Domaine Lignier-Michelot


50% whole bunch. There is silk here. So fine and delicate and precise., yet not without weight. Very pure, and as Virgile says 'étincelant' (which sounds better than sparkling - it's not fizzy!). Like a really grown-up version of the en la Rue de Vergy, all mineral and crystalline.L&S (Dec 2013)

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Rating: 93 Tim Atkin MW, (Jan 2014)

Darker and sweeter smelling than the Morey Premier Cru Vieilles Vignes. Ripe cherry fruit – aroma and flavour. Definitely has riper fruit character than many in this vintage but it makes a harmonious whole with a tannic freshness and length. 2017-2026 Rating: 17 Julia Harding MW, (Jan 2014)

Bright, full red. Cool aromas of black raspberry, violet and licorice, complicated by game and earth notes. Rich cassis and blueberry flavors show a tight mineral core, along with a saline dusty quality. This very backward wine is less fruity and more muscular than the Faconnieres, finishing with sneaky length and good mineral firmness. Virgile Lignier told me he always saves a few magnums of this wine. Rating: 90-93 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Jan 2014)

This is the first wine to display noticeable wood though not so much as to dominate the moderately floral and spice inflected aromas that also display subtle earth tones on the primarily dark berry fruit scents. There is fine concentration to the suave and quite supple medium weight flavors that possess a velvety mouth feel before concluding in a robust, serious and mildly rustic finish. I like this as well though it does not have quite as much energy as the Faconnières. 2022+ Rating: 90-92 Allen Meadows, (Jan 2014)

A domaine of 11 hectares, 25% regionals, 50% Villages, 20% Premiers crus and 5% Grands Crus. Virgile Lignier worked at the domaine with his father Maurice from 1988, beginning to bottle some of the wine from 1992 (it had previously been sold to the négoce), taking over in 2000, which was the vintage when he first bottled all the domaine's production.

In the vineyard Virgile made significant changes, stopping the use of herbicides, and beginning to plough instead. Green harvesting to limits yields followed, along with greater attention to grape selection. The domaine works organically except in extremis.

The wines have a lovely combination of enough body and richness, combined with a lively clarity of expression. The old vines village cuvées are seriously good, and great value too. Going up the scale each site seems to speak very clearly of its source and there is a brightness and energy along with full, seamless fruit.


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