2014 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière Domaine Hubert Lamy


As ever there's a sunny aspect to this from its exposition, as well as good volume and tension from the mineral soil. Intense. Fine mineral and directed palate from start to long finish. Drinking range: 2017 - L&S (Nov 2015)

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Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 St Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chateniere from Domaine Hubert & Olivier Lamy was not as clean on the nose as its peers, slightly cheesy at first and then light mothball scents. The palate is fresh on the entry with a pretty kiwi fruit and Cornice pear opening; but it never achieves the same level of tension and focus as other premier crus from the appellation, and it seems to drift on the finish. This may well be entering a dumb phase, and it may well re-find the promise it demonstrated from barrel, hence my plus sign. Drinking range: 2018 - 2026 Rating: 88+ Neal Martin, (Nov 2017)

Everything is in place here! Energy, savour, fruit… Not showy but beautifully introvert and sharp in the best sense. Kerpow! Great stuff. Drinking range: 2016 - 2024 Rating: 17.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - (Jan 2016)

The 2014 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière has a complex bouquet with a very faint, salty sea breeze breaking upon the citrus fruit. It is certainly well defined, stylistically not unlike the Derrière Chez Edouard at the moment. The palate is crisp on the entry, well defined with green apple and kiwi fruit, as well as a keen line of acidity, though perhaps it does not quite possess the same complexity as the Chez Edouard on the finish. Drinking range: 2017 - 2027 Rating: 89-91 Neal Martin, (Dec 2015)

This year with the rain - it had an effect…It is full and juicy and this is lifted at the end…Sweet fruit; concentration…sweet juicy lift…it is always very rich and sunny wine - easy to spot, but this year it has a juicy freshness. Rating: 17.2 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Nov 2015)

(from 50-year-old vines on a 40% (!) south-facing slope): Lime and smoky minerality on the slightly reduced nose. A very fresh wine for this normally quick-ripening site, with firm, integrated acidity and underlying minerality giving shape to the citrus and white stone fruit flavors. Dusty, tactile and quite long on the aftertaste. Strong juice! Rating: 90-92 Stephen Tanzer, (Sep 2015)

Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.

Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and in 2016 and 2017 there was no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.

The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.


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