This is impressive. Very mineral, a heft of oyster and chalk but surrounded by a thin crisp layer of lime juice and pithy lemon. There is brooding weight - but today from the tank this is pure and powerfully muscular Chablis. Delicious. Drinking range: 2020 - 2025 L&S (Oct 2018)
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The 2017 Chablis Forets 1er Cru is a gorgeous, beguiling wine that captures all of the qualities that make the best 2017s so complete and alluring. In the glass, the Forets is powerful and deep, yet also retains terrific nuance. The interplay of richness and energy gives the Forets myriad dimensions of complexity that will start to emerge more fully with time in bottle. Readers can look forward to a Chablis with a very bright future. Drinking range: 2022 - 2032 Rating: 94 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com(Feb 2020)
There is better Chablis typicity to the cool and restrained nose that is compositionally similar that includes the whiff of exotic fruit but with more citrus elements. Again there is very good volume to the overtly rich, textured and dense middle weight flavors that deliver plenty of minerality and salinity on the lingering finish. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2020)
Green fruits and straw on the nose. Lots of lovely juice on the palate. Racy, lacy and lifted. Very precise. Long. Drinking range: 2019 - 2026 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2019)
Virginie Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an incfluence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence. The cellar-work is also masterful, using barrel-élevage, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus). Virginie is proving to have what it takes to build on Stéphane's legacy, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, are as fine as they have ever been.
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