Tasted in October from the tank - the nose is more subdued here than on the Vaillons. And yet the feel here is richer and weightier. Great breadth in the mouth. The mineral side of this is serious, clean and scrubbed - this has a suedey texture to finish and lovely soft spice. Impressive impact. L&S (Oct 2018)
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The 2017 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru is one of the richer, more powerful 1er Crus in this range. A touch of vinification in oak adds volume and depth. Apricot, mango, pineapple and exotic floral notes all built in the glass. This is an especially overt, creamy style. I expect the 2017 will offer its finest drinking on the earlier side. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027 Rating: 93 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com(Feb 2020)
(from Montmains proper and Butteaux). Once again there is enough petrol influence to mention on the floral, airy and exotic fruit though here it’s more subtle. The lavishly rich medium-bodied flavors possess excellent concentration as well as an almost chewy texture though the warm finish lacks a bit of energy. In the same fashion as the Vaillons, I would not be inclined to age this beyond a few years. Drinking range: 2021 - Rating: 88 Alex Hunt MW, www.jancisrobinson.com(Jan 2020)
Deeply flavoured with real mineral suggestions. Something about the texture of this reminds me of the finest new lean Australian Chardonnays, funnily enough. Set for many a year. Drinking range: 2020 - 2030 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2019)
Virginie Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an incfluence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence. The cellar-work is also masterful, using barrel-élevage, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus). Virginie is proving to have what it takes to build on Stéphane's legacy, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, are as fine as they have ever been.
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