CHABLIS
2017 Croix aux Moines Domaine Denis Pommier
Brighter than their regular Village Chablis. There is a nice, high-lined thread of zip - above a pretty, generous core of fruit. Yellow and ripe flesh. Some apple, some warm pineapple - a heady cocktail which is good though. Normally a proportion of this goes into barrel, but this year there was just not enough juice for this - so all did its élevage in tank in 2017. This is very pleasing Chablis, good and easy, but with just enough succulent freshness.L&S (Oct 2018)
* This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.
(from 50+ year old vines, vinified and aged in 2017 the oak was reduced to 10% rather than its usual level of 25 to 30%). An admirably discreet application of wood sets off the ripe, fresh and appealingly layered nose of mineral reduction, pear and quinine. The rich, full-bodied and even more powerful larger-scaled flavors display evident mid-palate concentration, all wrapped in a succulent yet serious finish that coats the mouth with sappy dry extract. This is a very fine age-worthy Chablis villages and worth checking. Drinking range: 2024 - Rating: 90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2020)
(from 50+ year old vines, vinified and aged in 100% oak of 3, 4 and 5 years of age). A discreet but not invisible application of wood sets off the openly exotic yet agreeably fresh aromas that also possess enough Chablis typicity to indicate where this is from. On the palate the bigger, richer and opulent flavors are borderline sweet though the sweetness is tempered by citrus-tinged acidity. This is perfectly good if somewhat atypical. 2020+ Rating: 88 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Dec 2018)
Domaine Denis Pommier
Founded when the Pommiers inherited 2 hectares of vines in 1990. Isabelle and Denis bottled their first wine in 1994 and now have 23 hectares of vineyards, which are certified organic (which sadly cost them dearly in terms of lost crop in 2016 and 2017) and run according to biodynamic principles. Further reading is available in the form of Denis' book 'Les Larmes de Ma Vigne', published in 2020.
The Petit Chablis is a model of brisk freshness - made entirely in stainless steel - while the Premier Crus in benefit from a small amount of barrel-fermentation and élevage. The two named 'lieu-dits' of Chablis 'village', Les Reinettes and Croix aux Moines, are about a hectare in total. The Troësmes is within the larger premier cru 'Beauroy'. The Pommiers think this 'best bit' deserves to be identified by its correct name. It is relatively rounder, while the Côte de Léchet is the one for fans of the slatier, crystalline side of minerality. Keep either of the premiers crus for four to six years.
Petit Chablis 9.5 ha (+ 2 planted not yet in production)
Chablis 6ha
Chablis Reinettes and Chablis Croix aux Moines 1ha - a north-facing slope which catches the sun late in the day. Reinettes is on pure Kimmeridgian clay, under Croix au Moines, which is on a thinner soil at the top of the hill, both in the same sector as Côte de Léchet.
Chablis 1er cru Troësmes 1.8ha - white marl, facing due south.
Chablis 1er cru Cote de Léchet 1.1 ha - chalky, south-east-facing.
Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume .8 ha - a very steep hot south-west facing slope.
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