This has some almost raw power with a very assertive, grapefruit and lemon edge that flows to the very taut, powerful palate. Honey and stones at the finish. Try from 2022. Rating: 94 Nick Stock, www.jamessuckling.com (Feb 2019)
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We tasted 4 of the Chablis from Drouhin which all impressed, but this Les Clos is a definitive notch up. Raised in large (500l), old barrels to limit the 'wood impact' on this full and delicious juice. Good weight and breadth and a nice big ample middle. A sweep of pithy apple. Generous and delicious. Mineral line builds adding nice shape and push - then some good dusty spice kicks in on the back palate. This generous feeling Chablis is big and yet has just the right pinch of acidity making it juicy and moreish. Smart Chablis, but with a feel of fun and joy - and highly recommended. Drinking range: 2019 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)
The 2017 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru was reduced in terms of production because of the frost. It has a taut, flinty bouquet that gradually unfurls in the glass. The palate is crisp on the entry with touches of tangy marmalade and quince, good body and depth, but it need more tension and mineralité on the finish. Not bad, although perhaps not quite up there with the 2014 or 2016. Drinking range: 2020 - 2035 Rating: 92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com(Jan 2019)
Lightly dusty on the nose but really intense on the palate, crisp acidity and a slight smoky note like lapsang souchong. Power and drive – all so much in embryo. The barrel fermentation has given just enough roundness to balance that pure citrus. Very persistent like so many of these 2017s. Drinking range: 2024 - 2032 Rating: 17.5 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com(Dec 2018)
Domaine Drouhin Vaudon
The Beaune-based merchant Joseph Drouhin has restyled its Chablis Domaine 'Domaine Drouhin-Vaudon' to emphasise its ties with and holdings in (38 hectares) the Chablis vineyard. The Moulin de Vaudon, an 18th Century watermill straddling the Serein River, close to the Grand Cru vineyards of Chablis, is the headquarters and the source of the name. It is the largest estate in Chablis entirely farmed biodynamically.
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